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Petzl Nomic Ice Tool
  • Petzl Nomic Ice Tool
  • Petzl Nomic Ice Tool Head
  • Petzl Nomic Ice Tool Grip
  • Petzl Nomic Ice Tool Bottom

Nomic

Rating

My vote: None ( 4.6 avg )

Description

The NOMIC ice axe sets the standard for ice climbing. Perfectly balanced, equipped with weights, it offers an exceptional swing. The PUR'ICE pick provides efficient placement in any type of ice. The shape of the ice axe and the double handle offer multiple grip modes, as well as stable hand switching. The grip is comfortable, thanks to the ergonomics of the handle and to the adjustable GRIPREST handrest. Featuring a minimalist hammer, the head is protected and allows the user to hammer a piton back in. Entirely modular, the ice axe can be optimized for the terrain.

Description

  • Efficient placement on any type of ice: 
    - perfect shape and balance of the ice axe provide an exceptional swing
    - facilitated hooking, thanks to the curve under the head
    - PUR'ICE pick is tapered at the tip (3 mm), offering excellent penetration in any type of ice, including the very hardest. It is serrated on the upper side to offer a stable support when turned upside-down
    - inertia and striking quality are optimized, thanks to the MASSELOTTE weights
  • Comfortable grip, designed for technical ice climbing:
    - multiple grip modes and stable hand switching, thanks to the double handle (high and low) 
    - lower handle is offset to protect the hand from contact with the ice and to provide more comfort when suspended
    - upper handle is over-molded and bi-material, offering excellent grip and insulation from the cold
    - hydroformed shaft for optimal grip in the middle of the shaft
  • Modular construction:
    - entirely modular head allows the technical aspects of the ice axe to be adjusted
    - sold with MINI MARTEAU, to protect the head and allow the user to hammer a piton back in
    - without accessories, the ice axe is lighter, for dry tooling (only 500 g)
    - GRIPREST NOMIC handrest is overmolded and adjustable to three positions, to adapt to all hand sizes, even while wearing gloves. The lower part has a serrated stainless steel point that improves support when used in piolet-canne mode
    - connection hole is compatible with V-LINK elasticated loss-prevention webbing

 

Retail price

US$ 299.95

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Weight (g / oz)

Weight (g / oz)

In grams and ounces, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.

The weight is the packaged weight. If there are differences in weight (due to optional accessories) we'll note them here.

585 g / 20.63 oz­
Length (cm) 50 cm
Head Details Hammer­
2 Screw adjustment
Ice Rating Pick: B / Type 1
Shaft: T / Type 2
Picks Included with the tool:
Pur'Ice
Other Picks Available:
Ice
Pur'Dry
Dry
Pommel & Grip

Pommel & Grip

Upper Pommel

Fixed: An upper pommel that is fixed in place (it cannot move up/down the shaft nor can it be taken off).

Adjustable: An upper pommel that can move up and down the shaft.

Removable & Adjustable: An upper pommel that is completely removable and also adjustable.

Removeable: An upper pommel that is either on or off (it cannot move up/down the shaft).

None: If there is no upper pommel that comes standard (there may or may not be options to buy separately).

Lower Pommel

Fixed: A lower pommel that is fixed in place (the angle cannot be changed nor can it be taken off).

Adjustable: A lower pommel that can change angle or location on the tool.

Removable: When the lower pommel can be removed but not adjusted.

None: If there is no lower pommel that comes standard (there may or may not be options to buy separately).

Upper Pommel: Fixed
Lower Pommel: Removable & adjustable
Grip Size: Adjustable
Materials Pick: Steel
Head: Steel
Shaft: Aluminum
Grip: Glass fiber reinforced plastic
Certification

Certifications

The main climbing gear certifications are CE and UIAA--and normally the UIAA creates the rules that the CE body also supports. When possible, we try to list all the certifications the product carries.

To sell a climbing product in Europe, the device must be CE certified. There are no official requirements to sell climbing gear in the US. The UIAA certification is a voluntary process.

Learn More

Rock and Ice Certifications Guide
CE, UIAA
Picks it comes with
Interchangeable Picks
Ice Tool Acces. Ref
AVG RATING
5.808
( 5.8 avg )
Rating
6
( 6 avg )

Best of the best!

Pros
Quality, design, features, reputation
Cons
None
Familiarity
I’ve used it a bunch
Disclaimer
Just my opinion

This is my first Petzl Nomic! Very pleased with it, I have nothing bad to say about it. As usual Petzel quality throughout. Petzel never disappoints. I've never had a single problem with any of my pencil gear. Definitely the choice of a tool for hard vertical ice, big alpine climbs as well.

Super for mixed climbs as well! Has been to the Eiger many times by various pro climbs let's as well!

Rating
6
( 6 avg )

A piece of tool to go to war with

Pros
Geometry
Balance
Comfort
Familiarity
I’ve used it a bunch

Whether you're aiming at a technical ice route or a mixed climbing one, this axe will be your best partner and give you the confidence to go on, extending your arm's strength into the elements with ease and balance. 

It weight and geometry are perfectly engineered to give it a great swing and the angle offset of the wrist enables a great whip and a lot of precision. 

You can pimp it by adding extra weight on the blade if you go for a short and sharp ice route and remove it if lightness is important for your mobility out in the mountains, you can also add a hammer head for pitons. The handle is adjustable according to your gloves' size and an extra handle is located above the main one to allow handswitch with confidence!

Awesome tool, worth its price and weight out there in the mountains, the Nomic is an ice axe to die for!

Rating
6
( 6 avg )

A Vertical Ice machine

Pros
Natural swing
Wonderful balance
Phenomenal pur’ice picks
Comfortable grip
Cons
Soft picks
Pick weights loosen easily
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton
Disclaimer
Once you swing Nomics, you’ll never go back

The Petzl Nomic is my 2nd ice tool. Almost immediately after purchasing the newest Quarks I had the opportunity to demo Nomics. Immediately I fell in love with the balanced and natural swing.

The head of the tool did not seem to get lost mid swing making sniper precision placement incredibly easy. The pur'ice picks felt like cheating even in comparison to the Ice pick. The 2018/19/20 Nomic is easily the recommendation I would give to anyone looking for a set of vertical ice tools. The tool did have a nasty habit of becoming fixed ice pro if when swinging into pockets and the pick weights tend to rattle loose over time but otherwise petzl truly designed one of the best tools I've ever seen.

Rating
6
( 6 avg )

The vertical ice tool

Pros
Well balanced
Aggressive design
Modular handle
Cons
Swing less intuitive than others
Picks less durable than others
Familiarity
I’ve used it a few of times

These are the best tools for vertical ice I've ever used. They swing really well once you get used to the wrist flick required, and have a great design for climbing vertical ice. I think the picks are a little soft, and may end up replacing them with an aftermarket pick once these wear down.

Otherwise, I have absolutely no complaints.

Rating
5.04
( 5 avg )

Awesome all-around tool

Pros
Great weight distribution for easy swing
Performed well for both ice and mixed routes
Familiarity
I’ve used it a bunch
Disclaimer
Second-hand conditions many vary

Bought the Nomic second-hand and it did not disappoint. The design felt precise, being able to hold on most angles of rock and ice, while also being incredibly strong, able to cut into thick ice. I've used the Nomic on many climbs and can comfortably say it is worth the price. 

Bought the Nomic second-hand and it did not disappoint. The design felt precise, being able to hold on most angles of rock and ice, while also being incredibly strong, able to cut into thick ice. I've used the Nomic on many climbs and can comfortably say it is worth the price. 

Northeast Alpine Start Gear Review no rating given just a review

All of this adds up to one of the best choices for a technical climbing tool on the market! While you will notice how nice they feel in hand at your local gear shop you truly will be impressed the first time you take these out on real ice. These are a perfect choice for the ice climber who only occasionally (or never) climbs hard mixed routes. They excel on WI3+ routes. I would still reach for the Petzl Quarks for WI2 or more alpine type objectives but for ice cragging at Frankenstein, Ouray, or any WI4 and up these are the bees knees. I hope you get a chance to climb with them!

Climbing Gear Review no rating given just a review

The latest iteration of the Nomic improves on a tried-and-true design. The new Nomics come in at the same weight (about 21oz), but by shedding a few grams from the handle, Petzl was able to add their Mini Marteau hammer to the head, plus a stainless-steel spike to the bottom. Other improvements include a wider handle for a more comfortable grip, a glass-filled nylon overmolded upper grip (no more need for tape), pick weights shaped to better slot in cracks, and an insert in the head that prevents wobble in colder temps.

UK Climbing Gear Review no rating given just a review

We first got to handle Petzl's new top-end ice tools at the ISPO show in January 2018. They looked exciting; but there's only so much you can tell in an exhibition hall, and to really judge an axe you have to climb with it - a lot. Well as winters go, this one has not been the best to test ice axes, with conditions coming and going all season. Having the new NOMICS and ERGONOMICS sitting near my desk has been a frustrating business; however we've managed to get out enough to have a good idea of how they climb.

Alpinist Gear Review rating 4/5

The updated Nomics (585g each with standard accessories included, 500g without) are only slightly lighter than their predecessors while adding useful features including an integrated bi-material rubber grip over the shaft (making tape unnecessary), a built-in smaller hammer for pounding in pins, a steel spike at the bottom for use in cane mode, and tapered pick weights that slot better in cracks.

2018 Petzl Quark, Nomic, Ergonomic Review by Anne Gilbert Chase
Conrad Anker Reviews: 2018 Petzl Quark, Nomic, Ergonomic
Details of Petzl Quark, Nomic, Ergonomic 2018 Ice Tools