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nvorel

Reviews

Ultralight TCU 0

Metolius
Metolius Ultralight TCU 0
5.04

Metolius has the best small cams

Pros
Super Light
Quite cheap
Great friction on the rock
Cons
Not super flexible
Familiarity
I’ve used it a bunch

These are my go-to small cams beside the master cams. Despite their size, I always trust them to hold. I've taken falls on the 0 and it always holds. They're also so light that you could probably carry a whole rack of TCUs without noticing the extra weight. I always have these on my harness. They are my second in command, however, and Ill almost always place a powercam before one of these, unless the placement calls for a TCU.

Hiangle Men 2019

Five Ten
Five Ten Hiangle Men Climbing Shoe
4.02

Pretty Good

Pros
Fairly Stiff
Good on overhung territory
Cons
Bad for low volume feet
Not super durable
Familiarity
I’ve used it a bunch

These aren't my favorite downturned shoes. They really suck for low volume feet, and no matter how far I downsize, they still have a lot of extra room. That being said, I do enjoy them on overhung territory. The stiffer sole helps you press into holds really well, and the stealth rubber sticks well. They do wear out quickly, which is pretty annoying.

Quantum

Five Ten
Five Ten Quantum Climbing Shoe
6

My all-day sport shoe

Pros
So Comfortable
Good amount of downturn
Sensitive
Good heel
Cons
Fairly High Volume
Wore through the rubber super fast
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton

These shoes are my go-to all day sport shoe. They are super comfortable despite being downturned, and they're quite sensitive. The heel is great for hooking, and these are the shoes I pull out of my bag about 90% of the time. They did run out of rubber quite fast (mine wore out in about 3 months, as opposed to all of my sportiva shoes that have lasted over a year each), and mine currently need to be resoled. They also aren't great for low volume feet, and I have to lace mine as tight as they'll go. That being said, I still love them dearly, and would highly suggest them to anyone.

5.04

Great Beginner Shoe

Pros
Cheap
Durable Rubber
Nice Hybrid shape between flat and downturned
Cons
For beginners
Not super sensitive
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton

These shoes are great for beginners. They're, in my opinion, the best beginner shoe on the market right now. They have a slight downturn that really helps them stand out next to other beginner shoes. The rubber is really durable, and mine stood up to climbing five days a week in a gym for a year and a few months. They also are quite comfortable, which is good for beginners. That being said, they are for beginners and I would not suggest these to anyone who has been climbing awhile unless you're looking for a burner shoe.

Skwama Men

La Sportiva
La Sportiva Skwama Men Climbing Shoe
6

The Perfect Shoe

Pros
Relatively comfortable
Super good for heel and toe hooks
Durable
S-heel works magic
Cons
Not great for low volume feet
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton

These are my favorite shoes, hands down. They're magic on a overhand, and can hold onto any feet on a roof. They're also amazing for heel and toe hooks. They will never pop off a toe or heel hook due to friction; they'll only pop off because you're not strong enough. They're also relatively comfortable for a downturned shoe. My only issue is that they aren't good for low volume feet, but somehow the extra space in mine doesn't affect perfoemance at all due to the length and heel of the shoe. The P3 system is also very cool; it's nice to have a shoe that never loses its downturned-ness. I'm going to keep buying these shoe until they discontinue them, and then I'll buy as many pairs as possible and hope they last me.

Mythos Men

La Sportiva
La Sportiva Mythos Climbing Shoe
5.04

My Go-To All Day Shoe

Pros
So Comfortable
Durable
Classic
Cons
Not specialized for any one thing
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton

These shoes are a classic. They're my go-to all day trad shoe because they're so comfortable. Even when downsized, they still can be worn all day. They also held up for a year and a half of climbing four days a week in a gym, which says a lot about the durability of them. The only downside is that they're not a specialized shoe, but these shouldn't even be a consideration if you're looking for something specialized.

Birdie

Beal
Beal Birdie Belay Device
5.04

Better than a grigri

Pros
Releases great
Doesn't lock up as much while giving slack...
Cons
A bit heavy
Familiarity
I’ve used it a bunch

This thing is hands down better than a grigri. Beal somehow figured out how to get rid of the clunkiness of a grigri locking up when you don't want it to. The birdie flows much better than a grigri, and it's also cheaper. The only downside is that it's a bit heavier than a grigri 2, but it still is about the weight of a grigri +. This is absolutely my go-to device for routesetting and lead belaying.

ATC XP

Black Diamond
Black Diamond ATC-XP
5.04

One of the best beginner devices

Pros
Teeth
Very Light
Cons
No guide mode
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton

This is imo, one of the best devices you can get for a beginner. The teeth make it much superior to the regular ATC, as they help a lot with resistance on the rope. These are also much better than the regular for rappelling, due to the teeth. The only real downside is that there's no guide mode, so you can't multipitch with it, but that's what you get from buying it.

ATC

Black Diamond
Black Diamond ATC
4.02

A classic that has been improved on with other devices

Pros
Simple
Near impossible to load wrong
Great for beginners
Cons
No teeth
Bare Minimum of a belay device
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton

This thing is great for what its worth. It's simple, hard to mess up, and does exactly what it says it does. In that regard, I would give it full stars. However, there are many things about it which have been improved on in other devices. It has no teeth, it has no guide mode, and it has no locking mode. Basically, you get what you paid for. It's a great beginner device, but I never put mine on my harness anymore because I have other devices that work better.

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