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Username

martin9753

Reviews

Jay II

Edelrid
Edelrid Jay Harness
6

4x4 harness

Pros
Al terrain harness, very versatile
2 attachment points for ice tool clips
4 gear loops
Durable tie loop with plastic in the tie point for less abrasion
Easy & fast to adjust, not double bucle
The hip pad is moveable (can be centered)
Cons
weigh?
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton

Well, this harness was one of my best purchases, i have nothing to complain about it... nothing! if i review it with an alpine weigh saving look (sickness) i can complain about weight maybe, but that's not the market of it, for that are specific lightweight harnesses, and after all its not very heavy, you have good features for 437grs, that means:

4 gear loops

2 attachment points for ice tool clips

A durable tie loop with plastic in the tie point for less abrasion (the tie loop is much more rough than harnesses from other brands with similar specs, petzl, black diamond... and cheaper 

A nice padded hip 

Adjustable leg loops

Plus:

The hip padding itseld moves over the adjustment belt, so you can center it, this is a nice feaure

Plastic thing in the tie in point

I use it for all, sport climbing, alpine climbing, ice climbing, for more than 2 years and it don't show any sign of wear.

 

Pure Slider

Edelrid
Edelrid Pure Slider Locking Carabiner
4.02

I love them but...

Pros
Nice locking mechanism (look at the cons)
Light
Cons
The slide mechanism stop closing right after a few months of use
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton

I've been using this carabiners for more than 2 years, i loved the slide mechanism... i dont have screw gate carabiners, all my carabiners are auto, and almost all my carabiners are edelrid with slide mechanism or twist mechanism. The grace of auto carabiners is that you dont have to worry closing them, you let go the gate an they close automatically... well this slide thing worked fine for months, you loose the gate and it close, but after some use this stopped going that way, now everytime i let go the gate i have to close it by hand...

The thing is that when you loose the gate the slide pin normally hit the keylock, then slides down and allow the gate to take the close position then it goes up again closing the gate, but after some use this stopped, you loose the gate and when the pin hit the keylock it don't go down, it stay in that position, so you have to slide it down by hand to close correctly the carabiner, other way of doing this is full opening the gate and loosing the gate from this full open position, so it take more speed/power and close automatically in one step, but that is not the idea on an auto mechanism...

I think this isue could be solved putting some lubricant on the mechanism or cleaning it with compressed air.

 In case you think i have some factory failed carabiners thats not the case, i have 8 pure slider, 1 strike slider and a strike slider FG, and all of them started doing this after some months of use, so its not an isolated issue. I take care of my equipment, they are not full of dust or dirt.

Alpine/ice climbing use: i don't have any issue using the locking mechanism with gloves 

 

 

Nineteen G

Edelrid
Edelrid Nineteen G Carabiner
6

Light!!!

Pros
Very light (the most till 2017)
Different colors
They are easy to learn (about size doubts)
Cons
The only drawback is that its hard to take off the rope with one hand
And less durability than normal carabiners (they are thin), i don't use them on sport climbing...
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton

I've been using this tiny carabinners for more than a year and i'm very satisfied with them, I have the 18cm and 10cm versions of the express set and once you use them you don't want to go back to the normal expresses with giant and heavier carabiners, maybe only for sport climbing, because they are so thin that they wore fast in that kind of use.

When i bought them I was thinking in alpine climbing and weigh savings, i used them in ice climbing too, and I haven't any problem to clip them with gloves.

I also bought the six pack of them, and coupled them with a 120cm dyneema sling and a mission carabiner (bigger and only 6gr more heavy), so I clip the cams or ice screws in the 19G and clip the rope in the mission carabiner, nice combination, more confort to manipulate and for a little extra weight.