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Username

elnombremike

Reviews

6

If I could only have one shoe....

Pros
Super comfortable
Stiff, but not crazy stiff, still has some level of sensitivity
Great all rounder
Good crack shoe
Great at edging
Cons
Synthetic upper, so gets pretty stinky!
Laces are very long, have to cut them or tie multiple knots
Downturn doesn't last long...
Small toe patch rubber
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton

If I had to only have one climbing shoe to do bouldering, sport and trad this would be the one! In general I used this for sport and single pitch trad, or multi-pitch if I can take my shoes off at the belay. Due to the full length sole, not the best at steep/roof climbing boulder problems as its quite stiff, but for sure can be done! The narrow fit and rand really feels like it drives the power through my toes without crushing them or making the heel baggy, as sometimes is the case. They are not crazy a-symetrical or downturned, but they are enough so that they feel technical and powerful. That being said the downturn doesnt hang around, but thats not a problem in my opinion in a shoe which excels at edging, the stiffness and precision is always there! In terms of sizing  I wear a street shoe EU42 and these are EU42 as well, I dont downsize crazy in shoes (max 1-1.5 EU sizes in my bouldering shoes) but the sizing of these still gives me slightly crimped toes and a tight fit. They take a few sessions to mould to your foot, and due to the synthetic upper, dont stretch but more adapt to your foot as the rubber softens. There is a newer model out now with more toe rubber, so if you're into toe-hooks and all that fancy business, maybe get the newer model. If you're a bit of a weekend warrior and want a shoe you can hit the boudlering gym during the week, and then get some shakey leg panic on some trad at the weekend, then I cand defintly recommend! As with all shoes, try them on before you buy, these are quite narrow so wont suit everyone!

Techno X Men

Scarpa
Scarpa Techno X Climbing Shoe
6

Absolutely cracking!

Pros
Great slim toe for thin cracks
All day comfort
Super stiff, great for edging
Cons
Not sensitive at all due to stiffness
Turn your feet blue!
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton

My go-to multipitch shoe. Can wear easily all day! I have pretty narrow feet and these fit me nicely. For sizing I wear around an EU42 and these I have in a EU42, so same as my street shoes as I sized them for a crack/multi-pitch shoe. That being said, my toes are snug but not super crimped. Sadly these arent made anymore, but you can still find them around the internet for some bargain prices. They feel super clunky when they are new, but after a few sessions/routes and the rubber get a bit scuffed up then they feel great and really insire confidence on small holds/edges.