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chad.derelict

Reviews

Alpha Sport 12cm

DMM
DMM Alpha Sport 12cm Quickdraw
6

Rope eating draws

Pros
Super easy to clip rope
thick dog bone
ribbed for your handling pleasure
Cons
on the heavier side
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton

I love these draws. I never really saw the point in dedicated sport draws until I tried these. You just place the rope near the gate and they eat the rope. The easiest rope clipping I have ever come across. Love them. 

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Nano 22

CAMP
CAMP Nano 22 Carabiner
6

Best small Biner

Pros
Weight
Colors
Easier to clip and unclip than Ocun Kestrel or Edelrid 19g
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton

I used these on all my cams now after trying the Edelrid 19g and the Ocun Kestrel. These are a good weight and good size. The gates open wider than either of the others making clipping and unclipping way easier. 

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Kestrel

Ocun
Ocun Kestrel Carabiner
3

Better than the Edelrid 19g but not as good as the Camp Nano

Pros
Bigger gate opening than 19g
Color options
Weight
Cons
Not as easy to clip as the Camp Nano
3g Heavier than Camp Nano
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton

I got these to rack my cams. I was using Edelrid 19g's before but found them a pain in the ass, so got a set of these, which were an improvement but not by much and they are much heavier. I eventually went for the Camp Nano 22 which is lighter than these and has a larger gate opening which makes them much easier to clip and unclip. 

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Nineteen G

Edelrid
Edelrid Nineteen G Carabiner
2.04

Not as good as the Camp Nano

Pros
Lightweight
Various colours
Cons
Hard to clip and unclip
tend to flip over
not very hard wearing
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton

I got these to rack my DMM Dragons, wanting to save weight. They are OK, I find them a pain to unclip with the extendable draws and the gate opening doesn't open quite far enough to make clipping the rope easy. I have since replaced them with the Camp Nano's. They are slightly heavier but are way easier to clip and unclip. 

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Mega Jul 2023

Edelrid
Edelrid Mega Jul Belay Device
4.02

Better than a Grigri, but guide mode is poo.

Pros
Not too grabby
Assisted braking works well with a wide range of ropes
Can use twin/half ropes, and ab on 2 ropes.
similar to a normal tube and easy to show people how to use
Cons
Guide mode is a pain
longer abs on 2 ropes are difficult
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton

This is my main device for sport climbing, or any situation where I need assisted braking (abbing a route to check gear). I really like this for single pitch sport, and I have taken it on multipitch and used it in guide mode but I find it very grabby like this and I much prefer using a DMM Pivot for this. 

In normal use (sport) it performs well, Paying out slack is very easy and it is also very easy to show people how to use. I liked it that much for sport that I got the JUL 2 device to use for sport as I don't need the extra features the MEGA has most of the time. 

 

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