Climbing

The latest iteration in Petzl’s popular helmet line, the Meteor III+ was a favorite among testers. After climbing multiple pitches in Teton Canyon, one tester said he forgot he was even wearing it. Weighing in at 8.3 ounces, the Meteor III+ is the second-lightest among the bunch. It also proved to be impressively comfortable for a wide variety of heads, with an easy-to-maneuver dual-point adjustment system. This system, which engages by depressing two little tabs, does a great job at keeping..." go to full review

Testers loved the fit of Grivel’s Air Tech V39. A dial at the back of the helmet allows easy adjustments for comfort and keeps this lid firmly in place, no matter the size of your head or if you’re layered up with a hat. One tester at the Teton Ice Park said she loved how the helmet moved with her instead of having a “mind” of its own. Depending on their build, some climbers may find the location of the chin buckle irritating (on a few testers, it landed right where the neck and chin meet),..." go to full review

The Speed wins big points for its lightweight construction and comfortable fit. With a simple buckle and single dial in back, the helmet is easy to adjust, even with big mitts on, although testers did find its boxier cut better suited for bigger heads. (Regardless, hoods slid over this helmet just fine.) Best to try this one on before purchasing it—one tester climbing in Montana’s Hyalite Canyon found that the adjustment design created pressure on his forehead. Testers were torn on the..." go to full review

At first glance, the Zodiac looks like something out of the movie Tron. When you snap the chinstrap buckle the first time, it’s hard to know whether to tie in or ride off on a light cycle. Behind its futuristic Euro elegance is a very functional and comfortable helmet. The rear adjustment dial and “wing-fit” cradling system conformed easily to awkward-shaped noggins. The helmet is fairly lightweight at 13.4 oz., but the EPS foam liner and the rigid plastic outer shell don’t compromise on..." go to full review

Love it or hate it, climbing is getting steezier. From neon clothing to reflective sunglasses, flash is back. So when climbing helmets needed a makeover, Mammut introduced the El Cap, which breaks away from the standard bucket helmet with a narrower design and a low-profile visor. At first glance, this helmet looks more apt for kayaking or snowboarding, but the El Cap more than holds its own on rock. With 12 ventilation openings, adjustable headband, and relatively light weight (12 oz.),..." go to full review

Not only is it the lightest lid on the market at 5.82 ounces (that’s 1.8 ounces more than an iPhone 5), it is also unique in design—and look. The Sirocco utilizes expanded polypropylene (EPP) foam instead of the standard expanded polystyrene. EPP is the same foam used in car bumpers, and it is more spongy and flexible—instead of cracking like EPS, it is intended to absorb the impact without damage. This means it doesn’t need a plastic shell to house the foam. Testers raved about “not really..." go to full review

“Cobbles fly at the Minimum Crag in Utah’s Maple Canyon,” reported one tester, “but most climbers don’t wear a helmet for fear of losing style points and because it gets hot. But the Vapor is so light and low-profile, I kept it on climbing and belaying.” The Vapor has a featherlight expandedpolystyrene (EPS) foam body layered under a polycarbonate shell, with a sheet of puncture-resistant Kevlar as well as carbon rods in between the plastic and the foam. This creates a fully CE-certified..." go to full review

The Meteor has long been a top helmet choice for all-around climbing, and this year it gets a few more updates that make it even better. It’s always shined as a well-vented and lightweight brain bucket, but by expanding the size of existing vents and adding a few more, designers were able to cut weight and make it more breathable without any loss of integrity. “One of the most breathable helmets I’ve worn,” one tester said. Though a smart adjustment system allowed this helmet to fit a wide..." go to full review

Summary: Introduced in 1984, Wired Bliss cams began the TCU revolution. They still hold a respectable position near the top of the heap, featuring long stems that make plugging the cams into the back of flared corners a cinch, great spring action, and outstanding durability. Plus, the trigger cables are protected by rubber tubing. I carried a Wired Bliss TCU on my rack for six years until someone stole it, and it's probably still going strong. The only real drawback to Wired Bliss units..." go to full review

The smallest two sizes are designed for aid placements only, and we found them most useful in shallow horizontal cracks where we could view all four cam surfaces. (Because the cams and their expansion range on the tiny units was so small, we found it difficult to see all four cams in vertical cracks.) All six sizes feature cam stops and extendable Dyneema slings, and the #3 through #6 sizes proved to be exceptional free-climbing pieces covering the finger sizes.
Pros: Innovative stem/..." go to full review