Rock and Ice

Since their introduction to the market roughly 10 years ago, leashless tools have revolutionized mixed climbing. “Matching” used to mean placing both picks on the same rock edge while trying to puzzle out a sequence. Now, you can match hands on either tool, greatly simplifying the whole climbing experience, as well as certain tasks like shaking out and placing gear. The new Petzl Nomic is the latest rendition of sans dragonne machines, and from what I’ve seen, one of the best.go to full review

I gave the Ergo five stars, the highest possible, because this is the best technical tool I have used, and I've used every one that is available in the U.S. After several years of use with this tool, I still haven't found anything wrong with it. I still wish the picks were less expensive; I go through several sets a season...." go to full review

The Cryo swings well. At 1.3 pounds, it's extremely light, and the narrow shaft is great for people with small hands. I also think that the tip of the pick is too far forward of the hand. When you place the tool, you feel like you are miles away from the ice -- good for keeping your knuckles away from the ice, but bad for keeping your weight under the pick. The Cryo is a decent tool that only suffers from trying to be too nifty...." go to full review

The X-All Mountain is the finest thin-ice tool I have used, and one of the top all-around ice tools. The secret to the X-All’s performance is its needle-like pick, light swing and curved (not bent), shaft. All work in harmony to minimize ice fracturing. The picks are so easy to set, in fact, that you are apt to bury them in fat ice, making cleaning difficult. As I learned, the X-All requires a lighter, finer touch than other tools.go to full review

Enter the Black Diamond Viper, a high-tech all-terrain tool. Available with either hammer or adze, this fully modular unit is as functional and reliable as your longtime partner, perhaps more so. Weighing 1 pound 5 ounces (for the hammer), the Viper is light and well balanced. It swings in a natural arc, and, when fitted with the stock Laser pick, knifes cleanly even into brittle, sub-zero ice. The pick is tough, too. I torqued the bejeezus out of it numerous times and it didn't break...." go to full review

For hooking, on rock or ice, the primary and secondary grips keep the pull on the pick constant. grab the secondary grip and the tool won't shift on its placement. On ice, I used the thin Laser pick and by the second outing had the swing dialed and was able to easily get good sticks even in sub-zero ice. For pillar ice where I might want a leashless tool, I'd choose the Fusion over the BD Cobra because the Fusion is the easier of the two to hold onto, and for modern mixed (largely..." go to full review

For an all-arounder, the Cobra is among the very best. The more extreme shafts shapes and grips, such as those of the Petzl Ergo and Black Diamond Fusion are better for leashless climbing on vertical ice, and much better when the climbing is steeper than vertical, but for slabby ice, alpine routes and some vert, the Cobra dominates. I only wish that the picks weren't so expensive.

I gave the Cobra five out of five stars because it has held up to a lot of abuse and is one of the..." go to full review

This slipper has an innovative closure system, with the elastic upper cinching over the arch with a Velcro strap. This provides a snugger and more locked-on fit than many slippers I've tried, although the strap proved painful, pinching the skin on the instep of my foot. The last was also a little strange. When sized tightly, this shoe pulled my big toe up, rather than down - reducing power on steep rock...." go to full review

This shoe combines laces and an elastic tongue for a snug and surprisingly comfortable fit. It's a decent all-around performer, stiff enough to edge, soft enough to smear, and a few years ago would have scored higher marks for performance. Today, however, its design and last seem dated. The flat-soled last and trim toe work great in thin cracks, but otherwise this shoe does little to enhance the power of your foot...." go to full review

Overall, the Tarifa is a wunderwaffe for sport climbing. They are comfortable, don’t require a break-in phase and excel at precision pasting. I can see that climbers with more demanding foot types (such as weak, fat or ugly feet) might need a stiffer or wider shoe. There is no one, ultimate, sacrosanct climbing shoe that will fit and suit every climber. But these work for me (and Alex Megos).go to full review