Vapor V Men
A percise, versatile and best-selling shoe that marries a comfortable fit with steep climbing performance, the redesigned Vapor V features fresh colors, a microfiber upper and our Bi-Tension™ active rand for a premium combo of durability and sensitivity.
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|Weight|| 480 g|
Single : 240 g / 8.4 oz (Size 40)
|Closure Type||2 Velcro closures|
36 - 46 (half sizes), 47 - 50 (whole sizes)|
From your measured size, you'll want to consider downsizing .5 - 2 full sizes. The flatter the shoe, the closer to your measured size; the more downturned / aggressive the shoe, the more you'll want to downsize.
|Best Use (Highest Performance)||
Sport / Face|
|Tongue Details||not provided by the brand|
|Last Details|| Shape: Arched (technical)|
Construction: not provided by the brand
Last : FR Scarpa considers last information super top secret so we can’t define the last types further than the initials FR. But, if you find a Scarpa shoe that fits, any Scarpa shoes with the same last initials will fit your foot in a very similar way.
|Upper Material||1.8 mm Microsuede|
|Midsole Material||1.5 mm Talyn|
|Sole Material|| 3.5 mm
Vibram® XS Edge
|Footbed Lining||not provided by the brand|
Vibram® XS Edge
The Vapor V is great for beginners both in the gym or at the crag, as well as advanced climbers tackling a diverse range of projects. If you are looking for a shoe that can do everything well and become a long-standing member of your collection, the Vapor V will make an awesome addition.
The Scarpa Vapor V is a textbook all-rounder, designed to balance both comfort and performance on a variety of terrain. Whether you’re looking for a step up from your beginner shoes or are on the hunt for a versatile design that can handle the variability of multi-pitch climbing, the Vapor V could be your answer. Similar to the La Sportiva Katana Lace above, the Scarpa features a moderately downturned last, soft suede upper and mesh-gusseted tongue, and edging platform that excels on techy, vertical rock. The wide toe box keeps comfort high, and you can play with size depending on your goals: a relatively loose fit is great for all-day wear on multi-pitch routes (and better on slabs and cracks), while we prefer a tighter feel for redpoint burns at the sport crag.
I love my Scarpa Vapor V’s. They perform almost as well as any style-specific shoe (with the exception of crack climbing), and are easily the most versatile pair I own. They’re comfortable, breathable, sticky, and durable. If I have to pick any one pair of shoes for a day at the crag, these are usually my first choice.
The Vapor V is another quality take on the two dual Velcro climbing shoe, improving upon the features on classics like the Five Ten Anasazi VCS and the La Sportiva Katana. If you're having trouble on the thin finger cracks, these shoes might be the extra something you need to make it to the chains.
Whilst I really wanted to like the Vapour V, I have found it really hard coming to terms with the two halves. On their own they are both amazing, but combined they just seemed a little mismatched. The front half is spot on for trad/sport, being both stiff and supportive, but the soft midsole just means the power is lost, favouring a bouldering orientation. That said, if you've got a strong set of feet - or have a different set of criteria to us - there's a distinct chance you'll get on well with this incredibly well made shoe.
Strangely, when Scarpa contacted us to ask if we would review the latest 2019 version (version three) there was no 7.5, the choice was just a size 7 or 8. Although looking at the Scarpa website just now it looks as if half sizes are an option. So I’ve tested a U.K. size 8 for this review. I do use a size 8 for indoor climbing and bouldering circuits so I am used to the fit. The fit of the new version is relatively tight compared to previous models even though the shoe is built on the same FR last. The volume is still low and the asymmetrical shape and slightly down turned toe give that balance of comfort and precision. Maybe it’s the new microfibre upper that is replacing the leather uppers of previous models that helps keeps it’s shape better. Time will tell!