The Misty Mountain Silhouette was our first choice of harness every time we racked up for a gear route, and even for the occasional sport climb too. It is supportive and comfortable, and your body will thank you if you take this one on your next multi-pitch climb as opposed to some thin sport climbing model.go to full review
So that’s about it, folks. If you’re a beginner looking for a good all-around shoe, look no farther. They’ll even hold up as you move onto projecting more advanced routes. Or even if you’re more experienced and want a comfortable multi-pitch shoe, slab shoe, or Indian Creek-style splitter crack jamming shoe, I would HIGHLY recommend this pair. Now get out there and send it.go to full review
As the name would suggest, the Oracle is a shoe that can answer nearly all the questions asked of it in the vertical arena. It has become my current go to shoe for route climbing, but it’s equally at home in the wall. You may prefer the convenience of Velcro – particularly if you do a lot of indoor climbing or training. If so you might find the Evolv X1 worth a look. But if you want a performance all-rounder, the precision fit given by the lace system, and the all-round versatility of the..." go to full review
The ATC Pilot is Black Diamond’s offering to this increasingly competitive corner of the market, and at just 92g is one of the lightest assisted braking devices available and can accommodate ropes from 8.7-10.5mm in diameter. Unlike the Petzl Grigri, it contains no moving parts, instead relying on the rope being pinched between the belay-carabiner and Pilot at a particular angle. This system not only benefits the belayer by reducing the strain on them, but also aids the climber, giving them..." go to full review
The La Sportiva Kataki performs extremely well on a wide variety of climbs and rock types, but it really shines on trad climbs that combine difficult cracks and vertical edging. The Kataki’s combination of a softer, low-profile toe box, medium stiffness underfoot, and comfortable lacing system has made it my go-to shoe for thin cracks. There are better shoes on the market for super-steep pocket-pulling (e.g., La Sportiva Solution), and better shoes for long trad routes (e.g., La Sportiva TC..." go to full review
The La Sportiva Genius is a specialized, high-performance shoe that excels at difficult face climbing, performing exceptionally well on smears, pockets, and most edges. It takes the No-Edge design of the Futura and combines it with an even more aggressive last, making for a shoe that inspires confidence on the hardest routes. And while it has a very asymmetrical, downturned shape, the Genius is surprisingly comfortable thanks to its higher-volume fit and soft rubber. The Genius’ high degree..." go to full review
The Scarpa Furia S performs exceptionally well on overhung boulders or routes, as well as in competition settings. The Furia S’ malleable and sensitive sole make it a great option for advanced climbers looking for a shoe that will give them a confidence boost on slippery or tensiony feet. The Furia S does require stronger toes / foot muscles than stiffer shoes do, and therefore isn’t a great choice for beginners. I also wouldn’t recommend the Furia S for technical face climbing, since there..." go to full review
The Butora Altura is an awesome shoe for cracks, slabs, and all-day climbing. It is thoughtfully designed and extremely well-constructed. Like most shoes in this class, the Altura is stiff and not very sensitive, which might be problematic for certain climbers. So if you’re looking for a softer shoe that still offers a high level of performance on granite, I strongly suggest checking out the Tenaya Ra or La Sportiva Katana Lace. Otherwise, the Altura does everything the La Sportiva TC Pro..." go to full review
After spending a lot of time climbing in it, I’ve come to really love the Mad Rock Drone, and think it’s a great option for technical bouldering. It allows for precise footwork and secure heel hooking on tricky problems, though it doesn’t heel-hook quite as well on very flat surfaces compared to shoes with more traditional heels. In both indoor competition climbing and outdoor bouldering, the Drone HV has excelled.
Since I first tried on the Drone HV, they’ve been quite comfortable..." go to full review
Really there was only one thing I didn’t love about the Technician. The leg loops are too big for me, and I have to wonder at some of these harnesses, where size medium is perfect for my waist, but the leg loops open up to gargantuan size. Who are these people with size 32 waists that have legs the size of tree trunks? Definitely not sport climbers. Even with the adjustable leg loops cinched all the way down, they felt a little baggy on my legs. They also would invariably loosen up a little..." go to full review