Flossing into pockets and pressing against the limestone colonettes of Cayman Brac was tough in the island’s heat and humidity, which made my feet swell into small canoes. However, the light (15oz for M’s size 9), fleet Aleons still fit well. The shoe’s sculpted toebox provided mad power and precision for toeing in and thin edging, without the shoe needing a radical downturn, and the microfiber upper—with its breathable Primeknit closure—molded to my foot well. Bouldering guru Fred Nicole..." go to full review
The shoes in the Instinct line—especially the “orange slippers,” the original Instinct S—have for a decade been my redpoint weapons for vert and overhanging terrain, both bouldering and sport. I have a high-volume foot and climb short, highstepping and driving my toe onto holds to extend my reach; with their mild downturn and hyper-precise edging (odd for a slipper, but it’s true—I’ve climbed 5.13 slabs in them), the Instinct S suited my style. The new SR keeps the same Bi-Tension active..." go to full review
The Maestro Mid Eco is a solid contender for the best trad shoe on the market. The mid-height shoe is best suited for mid-to-wide cracks and long routes where you want solid edging performance (thanks to the Talyn 1.4mm midsole and 4mm XS Edge outsole)—or straight-up comfort. They jammed like a dream in Yosemite cracks, with a fit that allows you to climb with flattened toes and cleverly placed stitching that prevents hot spots, while leather panels protect the laces. Additional padding..." go to full review
I have a big soft spot for the Cobra, so it was nice to see these serpentine senders get a reissue as the Cobra Eco, made from 85 percent recycled material, including on the uppers and webbing—and also via the FriXion ECO sole fashioned from repurposed rubber. I’ve found the new Cobra to, like its predecessor, be an amazing all-arounder, one I’ve used confidently on thin granite multi-pitch, overhanging limestone sport, gym bouldering, and mixed trad. The shoes have a high-volume feel, great..." go to full review