To describe the Joker as a beginners model would massively undersell a shoe that has the ability to appeal to a much larger audience - that being anyone whose first priority is comfort. For low-mid grade routes and bouldering they're impressively versatile, with just enough stiffness to give a reassuring amount of support, but not too much to strip out the sensitivity. The fact they're made in the EU, and still manage to come in at an affordable price, makes them even more attractive. Unless..." go to full review
There is nothing wrong with Edelrid Jayne, but it didn't stand out enough in any one particular way to win an award in our review. It is comfortable and fairly versatile though, and may just be the perfect fit for you!go to full review
The Five Ten Anasazi VCS was a top-of-the-line climbing shoe for decades. With the NIAD VCS, Five Ten chose to rename the shoe while continuing to offer a model with the same time-tested design. History has proven that this shoe is capable of hard climbing. However, we believe that many modern improvements have allowed other designs to catch up and surpass the NIAD VCS when it comes to top-end performance.go to full review
Despite all the new technologies flooding the climbing shoe world, sometimes you just want a simple, inexpensive shoe. The La Sportiva Tarantulace is exactly that. For less than half the price of a high-end shoe, you get a quality-made Italian shoe fitted with sticky rubber that would make the Stone Masters of a bygone era madly jealous. Sure, better shoes do exist, but for plenty of folks, the performance benefits of a top-scoring shoe won't be worth the added costs. The affordably priced..." go to full review
2 years later and the Mystix is still an incredibly attractive, contemporary proposition, aimed at the high-end bouldering market with technically specific design features to streamline performance on modern, indoor problems. Powerfully downturned and rather stiff for a modern shoe, the Mystix felt like a weapon on my foot right out of the box with a pronounced point at the toe end of the shoe to dominate holds on overhanging terrain. This was where the Mystix truly thrived, clawing..." go to full review
In conclusion a brilliant stiff shoe that is in its element outside especially on longer routes where the support it gives will reduce fatigue. Probably not the best choice indoors or for smeary slabs and if you’ve never climbed in a stiff shoe there may be a short period of adaptation – but stick with it as the benefits a worth it. I wore the Magnet in an 8.5 UK size (same as my Voltage Lace) and I usually wear a 9 UK in trainers. I’m also a very wide foot (2E) and these still proved..." go to full review
In the end, like most all-arounders, the Crawe is basically an intermediate shoe. Designed for bouldering and sport climbing, its most devoted wearers will be primarily gym climbers who want a shoe that can perform equally well on sub-vertical volumes, steep board climbs, and those end-of-day romps up the autobelays. For more specialized climbers, or climbers who care to invest in a quiver of shoes, the Crawe can play a solid role as a training shoe, but it is unlikely to be your go-to. As..." go to full review
First, about my testing: I used these shoes for two steady months of mainly granite crack and face climbing, with a couple days of techy limestone, quartzite, and gneiss thrown in to round things out. Throughout this time I also tested the new Katana Lace, a fantastic edging shoe itself, and I often climbed the same pitch twice wearing both pairs. The Katana Lace is stiff, downturned, and, most importantly, has a very pointed and low-profile toe. In Squamish, where I primarily climbed, many..." go to full review
The Instinct S nails the sweet spot for slipper fans who thrive on sensitivity and feedback, but who also want a solid dash of edging support for technical face, kneebars, and longer pitches. They are not as stiff and precise as the original (all-orange) Instinct S. But to offset this, the new Instinct S are much better at grabbing, heel-hooking, toe-scumming, and heel-toes: There’s a lot of glommy rubber that deforms into weird crevices and angles—the kind of funky footwork you find in..." go to full review
The Cirrus is built not only for top impact, like most climbing helmets, but also for side and rear impacts as well, making the Cirrus a viable option for ski-mountaineering (there is currently no rating system for ski-mountaineering helmets). Expedition mountaineers, riggers, and other users will appreciate the toughness of the Cirrus as well. When traveling for expeditions, I have often carried my lightweight helmets in my carry-on for fear of them getting crushed in the underbelly of the..." go to full review