Petzl Neox Review

All assisted-braking devices (ABDs) must toe the line between providing a secure rope-pinching mechanism when the climber falls, and also allowing the belayer to feed out slack quickly when the lead climber is climbing quickly or clipping pieces of protection. The Petzl Neox finds the sweet spot on this spectrum, using a spinning wheel to reduce friction. This allows belayers to feed slack quickly and still provide a safe belay in the case of a leader fall. It is our preferred device for lead belaying.