Anchor Chain

Number of Links

How We Count

This refers to the number of loops (or links) in a chain style personal anchor. Typically, the more links a PAS has, the longer and more versatile it is. More links also means more bulk and weight. Some brands sew the connector end of a PAS to include a dogbone-like loop for holding a carabiner; this is also counted as a loop. WeighMyRack does not count the harness attachment loop here.

Features

Adjustable Lanyard

Some Lanyards have built in buckles or attachment points that allow for adjusting their length. These adjusters do not affect the strength of the lanyard and are useful for finding a comfortable position at a belay or when you need to create space for another climber to pass. Adjustable lanyards should not be confused with adjustable daisies, which are not rated to hold a fall.

Bluesign® Product

This designation signifies that the manufacturer is committed to tracking and reducing the impact of textiles in their gear on the planet. As a third party Bluesign tracks its partners products from material sourcing through manufacturing, packaging, shipping, and distribution. A piece of gear that is considered a Bluesign® product must contain at least 90% Bluesign approved materials and be made by a Bluesign system partner.

Built-in Carabiner

Some brands include a specific carabiner with their PAS. This is usually because it is designed to orient in a certain way in tighter terminated loop at the end of the device. Some brands make this dogbone-like loop and do no provide a carabiner, this filter designates which brands actually include the carabiner.

Full strength girth hitch

When soft goods like slings are passed around an object and back through themselves, (known as a girth hitch or a lark's foot hitch) their strength is reduced by around half. This form of attachment has long been used to attach climbers to anchors, but has been a point of discussion regarding its safety and potential risks due to materials rubbing on themselves and cutting or wearing through. Some companies have decided to combat this by designing a form of attachment loop that includes an extra loop on the harness end for a girth hitch to pass through which keeps the end from being able to cinch down. Essentially this creates two girth hitches, which doubles the amount of strength in the system (which was cut by half before) making it a 'full strength' way to attach to an anchor.

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The best sustainability certifications

Certification

UIAA 109 / CE EN 17520

Lanyards (or more specifically Belay Lanyards) are a recognized and certified designation by the UIAA and CE for use in mountaineering. This certification UIAA 109 / CE EN 17520 includes testing for reducing shock to the anchor to no more than 10kN and must hold up to 15kN. PAS devices made from Dyneema / UHMWPE aren't usually certifiable as lanyards.

UIAA 104/ CE EN 566

PAS devices that are made of links are also usually made of UHMWPE / Dyneema and are therefore quite able to pass the certification of a Sling for Mountaineering The strength rating of the UIAA 104/ CE EN 566certification is a whopping 22kN. It should be noted that devices with this certification alone have not been tested to reduce shock or load of any kind and should be considered static material that will transfer 100% of force to an anchor or piece of protection.