SCARPA Vapor V

If you’re looking for a shoe to take up Super Crack in Indian Creek or any of the wide cracks in Vedauwoo, then you’re much better off going with an equally soft but flatter, more comfortable shoe—the Moccasym for example. And while the Vapor V is about as comfortable as a downturned shoe gets, it is still aggressively shaped. Though it could no doubt be done, taking these up the Diamond is probably more than I’d want to bite off with these shoes. If you are looking at pitches that involve lots of technical footwork, then this shoe is for you.

In similar fashion, if you’re a sport climber who lives in Rifle or the Red, then odds are you can afford to place a higher premium on edging and power generated off small holds with little concern for how this affects your shoe’s ability to smear. In those cases, going all-in on your shoe’s edging power might be preferable.

If, however, you’re going to use one shoe for damn near everything, or you climb rock that necessitates both “sport” and “trad” techniques (I’m looking at you, granite), then this shoe is top notch. If this last category describes you and the Vapor V fits your foot, your search is over.