MAMMUT SMART ALPINE

We tested this device on a night ice climbing outing. The temps were around 15-20F and the route was pretty wet. Great conditions to test the limits of a belay device. We testing the auto locking feature and found it to engage well on our thin 7.8mm half-ropes. When giving slack for clipping pro you need to pull on the thumb catch on the bottom of the end of the device. This keeps the auto-lock from engaging. Other than this minor change from the usual lead belay everything else is the same. After climbing to a mid-route anchor we rappelled a little over 200 ft. to the bottom of the route. Rappelling is the same as giving slack. You simply hold the ropes in your hand for friction as you pull on the thumb catch at the of the device. If you want to stop mid-rappel simple let go of the device and the auto-lock engages. A very nice feature for clearing stuck ropes or other issues. At the top of the route I found the Smart Alpine provided a smooth confident descent. About half way down, where the ropes began to get pretty stretched and pretty wet, the needed friction was not quite as solid, but I was still able to maintain a smooth and comfortable rappel.