Testers' Choice

How do you improve a product that has been a powerhouse in the climbing industry for almost two decades? Petzl went back to basics by making the original Grigri lighter and smaller, replacing it with the Grigri 2 (petzl.com). Used for everything from extended sport belays to jumar back-ups, the Grigri is now 2 ounces lighter and only about 75 percent of the original’s size. It also handles smaller-diameter ropes (down to 8.9mm) than the original, so skinny-rope redpointers and fat-cord topropers alike will be satisfied. From sport climbing in Colorado to a fourpitch sandstone tower in Utah, the Grigri 2 had all our testers singing its praises. Users found that feeding slack and lowering were smoother than with the original, and they ranked it as one of the most “automatic” belay devices—averaging a 9 out of 10 for braking power. We tested everything from 9.2mm to 10.5mm ropes, with the best results coming in the 9.4mm to 9.8mm range. Ropes in the 10.5mm range proved a bit balkier, but were still relatively smooth, and all rope sizes had “minimum unwanted locking.” Because the Grigri 2 is smaller than the old device, it’s also easier for those of us with childishly small hands to use the correct belay technique. One tester claimed the worst
feature of the Grigri 2 was “sending it back.”