EDITORS' CHOICE

At first glance, our reaction to BD’s Magnetron technology for locking carabiners was that it might be the most innovative solution we’d ever seen to a problem that might not exist. But after digging deeper and using the biners indoors and out—they won’t be available in stores until July—we’re convinced Black Diamond is onto something. Instead of the traditional screw gate or spring-loaded auto-locking mechanism, the Magnetron relies on magnets (duh!), with a steel bar embedded in the carabiner nose and magnets in two locking arms on either side. Press on the arms and the magnets’ repulsion holds them apart—and keeps the gate unlocked. Release the arms and the magnets clamp onto the nose. The magnets don’t provide the strength in the lock—the shape of the gate and nose do that. But they do make it super-easy to lock and unlock a biner with one hand (and it’s just as easy with either hand). The system is also easy to use with gloves and less likely to ice up than screw gates in winter. The Rocklock is a typical small pear locker; the Gridlock, a Climbing Editors’ Choice winner in 2011, is BD’s clever belay biner designed to prevent cross-loading. Both biners weigh about 3 oz. and pair smoothly with a Grigri 2 or tube-style belay device. These are about the most expensive aluminum carabiners on the market—$7 to $15 more than the same BD biners without the new technology, but we think you should try one for yourself. You might get hooked.