Black Diamond ATC-XP

“If you’re anything like me, then you take more gear then needed,” our belay device tester said one day. “I mean, who doesn’t want Buddha’s own rack of double cams, draws, and slings?” With that approach, odds are you’re going to have the right piece, but you might as well carry a boat anchor, too. That is where tools like the newly redesigned Black Diamond ATC-XP come in handy. With cut-outs in the side walls and subtle changes to the shape, the new ATCXP is 30 percent lighter (now 2.3 oz.) than the original, shaving weight while not compromising safety. It also doesn’t heat up as fast, and thus will remain relatively touchable after 200- foot raps. Our tester felt it also handled thick ropes (up to 11mm) better than the old version, while still performing flawlessly with a dental floss 8.9mm and even skinnier half ropes.