Shaman 2021

The updated Shaman takes an already established, high-end sport-climbing shoe and makes minor adjustments to improve comfort while not changing the nature of the shoe. The Shaman is competitive on it’s merits alone, and it’s an even more compelling shoe once price is considered. Climbers looking for a shoe for thin, vertical climbs with sustained edging might consider a shoe that is stiffer underfoot, but those climbers looking to graduate to steep / overhanging terrain or pursue projects on pocketed limestone will find a great fit for that style in the Shaman, and at a lower price point than any other shoe with similarly high levels of performance.

A good all-rounder for those wishing to perform to a high standard both indoors and out, sport climbing and bouldering. Not suited for easy long trad routes and out-and-out smearing. A recomendation for sure and a price tag of £115 which is mid range for performance shoes these days.

Overall, I found the new Shaman’s firm mid-sole and downturned toe to offer excellent security anytime I had to be precise with my feet on slightly slabby, vertical, or moderately overhanging terrain. Think Rifle’s small square edges and Shelf Road’s pockets and sharp nubbins. I also did a fair amount of climbing in Eldorado Canyon with the new kicks, and although I kept them away from true slabs routes, the shoes saved my butt a few times by letting me stand securely in bizarre off balance positons and fiddle in gear. Finally, I am continually amazed at how much comfort Evolv was able to build into the 2016 boots without a sacrifice to performance.

The Shaman has won the heart of many climbers, and a fair few awards along the way. However, when comparing these shoes to the Scarpa Instinct or Butora Acro, we couldn't get past the softness of the rubber as a key factor in assessment. It lacks the edging ability of the La Sportiva shoes, and with a lot of rubber underfoot it doesn't compensate for that by being more sensitive. The toe also feels blunt when compared to the Tenaya Tarifa, so it's harder to fit into small spaces or to place on thin edges. As with any high-end climbing shoe, the final decision will come down to personal preference and where you're climbing.