Vapor V Women 2018
Description
A shoe designed for all women looking for maximum performance, comfort and versatility. The last is dedicated to the female foot. Thanks to the BI-Tension System technology, maximum precision and sensitivity guaranteed to last, even with intense usage.
Retail price
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Weight | 400 g Single : 200 g / 7.05 oz (Size 38) |
Closure Type | 2 Velcro closures |
Gender | Women |
Volume | |
Sizing Information |
European sizes 34-42, including half sizes. From your measured size, you'll want to consider downsizing .5 - 2 full sizes. The flatter the shoe, the closer to your measured size; the more downturned / aggressive the shoe, the more you'll want to downsize. Scarpa-Shoe-Size-Chart_1.pdf |
Best Use (Highest Performance) |
Sport / Face Bouldering Indoor |
Asymmetry | Moderate |
Tongue Details | not provided by the brand |
Last Details | Shape: Arched (technical) Construction: not provided by the brand Last : FRW Scarpa considers last information super top secret so we can’t define the last types further than the initials FR. But, if you find a Scarpa shoe that fits, any Scarpa shoes with the same last initials will fit your foot in a very similar way. |
Upper Material | not provided by the brand Microsuede |
Midsole Material | not provided by the brand Flexan |
Sole Material | 3.5 mm
XS EDGE
Rand: Bi-Tension |
Footbed Lining | not provided by the brand |
Vibram® XS Edge
No reviews yet.
Simply a great choice for anyone from beginners to veterans who are looking for a technical shoe that works on a wide variety of rock types and styles from crack to steep face. The new Vapor is more refined than the previous rendition with a better fit, a better look and more performance. I’ve been so happy with these shoes that I picked up an extra pair for the gym this winter.
I generally dislike velcro shoes. They never seem to fit right so I prefer laces for extra fitting precision they offer.
I have managed to test these out quite a bit now; on sticky Northumberland sandstone, super polished inner city Dolerite bouldering and steep indoor climbing. I'm glad to report that they are very good indeed.
Scarpa shoes generally fit me very well so if your a Scarpa person, like myself, I can recommend giving them a go.
Both of our testers gave the Vapor V women’s shoe two thumbs up. Their main comments were about how comfortable the shoe was while still being an asymmetrical downturned shoe. One tester said that she felt more confident and could get more tries on her project because her feet didn’t feel so sore and fatigued. Both the men’ss and women’s Scarpa Vapor V are priced at $159, which isn’t cheap, but well inside the realm of quality performance oriented rock climbing shoes.
A good all-round performance rock shoe. The velcro version is an excellent and comfortable smearing shoe with great friction from the Vibram XS Grip2 rubber but also maintaining good edging capability. The fit is narrow and the sizing is more in line with non-climbing shoes than many other rock shoe brands. The fastening system leaves a flap above your inside toe edge which is distracting (but you can cut it down). Good general comfort as the boot softens and no significant stretching has been noticed in the two months that I have been using them. Faced with the choice now between my ageing Visions, and the new Vapours, I have opted for the Vapour every time recently and I would recommend these boots as ideal for those who prefer stiffer edging boots, but want to maintain their smearing ability on rock like gritstone and granite.
The rubber on these shoes is the Scarpa Vibram XS Grip 2 and it is sticky. During testing the shoe was exposed to granite face climbing, basalt cracks and sandstone boulders and there was no visible slippage. That same rubber is also applied to the top of the shoe sparingly above the toe-box, but it is not recommended for toe-hooking as there is not enough surface area to grab a sustainable hook.
Overall, this shoe would be a great 2nd pair for a climber looking to pursue a full day of sport climbing or numerous nights bouldering at their local gym.
This is now my favorite all-around face climbing shoe, and it can venture into jamming terrain too. I took it for a week of limestone climbing in Potrero Chico, Mexico and wore it every day; it performed equally well on overhanging power-endurance routes and delicate sub-vertical smearing and edging problems. If you want one high-performance shoe that is well adapted to all styles face climbing and some crack climbing too, and doesn’t mash you toes, look no further.
If you’re looking for a shoe to take up Super Crack in Indian Creek or any of the wide cracks in Vedauwoo, then you’re much better off going with an equally soft but flatter, more comfortable shoe—the Moccasym for example. And while the Vapor V is about as comfortable as a downturned shoe gets, it is still aggressively shaped. Though it could no doubt be done, taking these up the Diamond is probably more than I’d want to bite off with these shoes. If you are looking at pitches that involve lots of technical footwork, then this shoe is for you.
In similar fashion, if you’re a sport climber who lives in Rifle or the Red, then odds are you can afford to place a higher premium on edging and power generated off small holds with little concern for how this affects your shoe’s ability to smear. In those cases, going all-in on your shoe’s edging power might be preferable.
If, however, you’re going to use one shoe for damn near everything, or you climb rock that necessitates both “sport” and “trad” techniques (I’m looking at you, granite), then this shoe is top notch. If this last category describes you and the Vapor V fits your foot, your search is over.
I spent two weeks out in Estes Park, Colorado in late September to climb as much as I could before I headed back east for a quick rest between clients. My ultimate style of shoe is something comfortable, I am in them a lot and comfort is something I like to attain when crossing over into the vertical world. I think most guides would feel the same way. I typically wear a pair of La Sportiva Mythos or some kind of approach shoe, so going sport climbing with the Scarpa Vapor V was in a different ballpark for me. With the vast variety of shoes on the market, it is hard to satisfy everyones needs or wants in one climbing shoe. The Vapor V’s are more of a sport climbing specialized climbing shoe that I wouldn’t want to wear on long multi pitch climbs, but I don’t think Mythos are a very good sport climbing shoe either, though some may beg to differ. They are entirely different shoes and are specialized for a certain type of climbing. Sport climbing shoes tend to fit tight and jamming your foot into a crack with your toes in an aggressive position is quite painful.
Scarpa’s Vapor series includes a lace-up, Velcro, and slipper—all of which have their strengths on cracks. The Vapor V is our testers’ favorite for thin cracks, offering a supportive yet narrow toe for more penetration and less pain (due to a stiff midsole). The last is slightly asymmetric and slightly downturned, while a thin, synthetic midsole adds edging power. Two Velcro straps cinch the fit while the suede/ Lorica uppers stretch just enough to conform to your foot while maintaining support. Jamming? Edging? The Vapor V does it all. Also available in a women’s version.
The Vapor V’s asymmetric, slightly downturned last, medium-stiff Flexan midsole, and 4mm Vibram XS Grip 2 sole create a comfortable, all-around shoe. The unlined upper is a blend of leather and synthetic (Lorica). The Vapor V has a roomy toe box for wider feet, but two hook-and-loop straps cinch down tight for a narrower fit. Active Rand Technology forces power to the big toe for superior edging performance. Testers would have liked more rubber on top of the toe for hooking and crack climbing.
All the key features and close view of Vapor V shoe.
All around view and all the features of Old Vapor V.
Although the screenshot of this video shows the Scarpa Instinct, this is just used to describe the lasting process. 1:10 is when Tim starts talking about the Vapor V specifically. From 3:45 on Tim compares the Vapor V to the Instinct slipper.<br />
This video only shows the men's Vapor V, but it's worth noting that the women's version is the same in terms of features and only differs in the fit.
Note: This is the pre-2015 version of the Vapor V. The newer version has a larger toe patch and a few other improvements.
Video shows how and where Scarpa shoes are made.