Genius 2023

The La Sportiva Genius is a specialized, high-performance shoe that excels at difficult face climbing, performing exceptionally well on smears, pockets, and most edges. It takes the No-Edge design of the Futura and combines it with an even more aggressive last, making for a shoe that inspires confidence on the hardest routes. And while it has a very asymmetrical, downturned shape, the Genius is surprisingly comfortable thanks to its higher-volume fit and soft rubber. The Genius’ high degree of asymmetry is a hindrance on straight-in cracks, but that’s no surprise. And while the Genius toe- and heel-hooks well enough to be a high-end bouldering shoe, the P3 platform under the toe tox means that it lacks some of the sensitivity that many climbers prefer for really steep boulders. But if the Genius’ high price isn’t a dealbreaker, it offers excellent performance on all types of face climbs.

In short, La Sportiva’s “No Edge Technology” is amazing! It has sped up my footwork and given me more confidence on tiny footholds. The Futuras are the best fit for me, and have become my favourite shoes for crimpy climbs. The Geniuses offer all the benefits of the “No Edge Technology” but with more comfort (and they look like friggin’ Ferraris!). I still use the Solutions on overhanging climbs when I need that little bit of extra power on my toes, or when I need to hook my toe on a hold in the roof, but for everything else I prefer the “No Edge” shoes. If you have good footwork, but are still struggling to trust your feet, or if you just need a new pair of shoes and can’t decide whether to edge or not to edge, then I suggest you give these shoes a try.

Whether or not you're a believer (or have yet to permit yourself to be converted, go on test your conviction) in No Edge shoes, the worthiness of the Genius is hard to deny. A fusion of many inspired designs, the Genius blends the best aspects of some tried and true favorites to create a unique and very complete package.

You’ve probably heard people say, “buy nice or buy twice.” The Genius is expensive—prohibitively so for many people. But if you think about it, is the $20-40 extra you spend on something you’ll wear every time you climb really all that much money? If you love steep rock climbing, you’ll love this shoe. You’ll probably forget how much you spent on it not long after you start using them. Meanwhile, you’ll also probably use them and love them for months to come. One possible problem is that it appears that resoling the shoe will be difficult to impossible. I can’t imagine how it would be done, and it’s sure to be more expensive in the end. That said, the No-Edge concept is designed to last a lot longer than regular shoes, so you may not need to resole nearly as often. When all the cards fall, we’d say that if you’re reaching for your wallet, just pull the trigger. You won’t regret it.