Top of the line quickdraws
by Nicolai on 11/15/2012Pros
Lightweight
good handling
nice looking
Cons
Expensive
Ange Finesse S 17cm 2018
Description
ANGE FINESSE quickdraws are equipped with the new ANGE S and ANGE L carabiners. Petzl's MonoFil Keylock technology and the H-profile make these carabiners ultra-light and optimize their strength to weight ratio. They are also extremely durable, as are the new FINESSE Dyneema® slings. ANGE FINESSE quickdraws are equipped with the STRING S to correctly position the rope end carabiner for clipping, and to protect the webbing from abrasion.
Ultra-light wire gate ANGE S and ANGE L carabiners:
- Petzl's MonoFil Keylock ensures smoother opening and closing of the carabiner and a much longer lifetime compared to traditional wire gate carabiners
- the unique H-profile of the carabiner allows an optimal size and strength-to-weight ratio
The indent on the bottom of the ANGE S and ANGE L carabiners helps keep the STRING in place so that the sling is properly positioned on the carabiner.
The FINESSE 10 mm wide Dyneema® sling offers an excellent weight to strength ratio
The STRING S holds the rope end carabiner in place and helps protect the webbing from abrasion
Retail price
US$ 26.95
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If you are a sport climber then you dont want these! Firstly the thin gate is very difficult to clip and secondly they don't work with clipsticks!
Despite me being quite excited about getting these to begin with they have largely been relegated to attaching my climbing shoes together.
I give this a rating of 1 thumb down. For being advertised as a super-light draw they totally disappoint.
In general the quickdraws we reviewed are all good quality products that you can't really go wrong with. For someone after pure weight-saving then 12 CAMP Nanos will weight roughly the same as 10 Edelrid Missions. Where every gram counts this might be the difference between success and failure. Having said that it is almost certain that on most long trad pitches, rope drag is going to add a lot more than the weight of a quickdraw to slow you down, so a good mixture of longer quickdraws and extension slings like the 25cm DMM Alpha Trad will be more beneficial to help reduce rope drag. Those who are prone to fumble clipping might want to steer clear of the very smallest krabs and go for a good clean nose style like the Black Diamond Oz.
During writing this test I have had a trad rack consisting of at least one of all the quickdraws in this review and I have found myself choosing the quickdraw based on the placement - long ones for runners to the side, short ones for the low runners, clean nose for the grip clip, leaving the very lightest ones for the top. I wouldn't advise carrying 7 different styles, but a mixture of lengths and styles is definitely worth considering.
Now with quickdraws, most anything on the market will get the job done. I’ve got a variety on my rack, but the Petzl Ange’s are the ones I reach for when I’m really crux-ing out.
Clipping bolts is rad because it’s so damn simple. The Ange’s make it just a little more refined, with superlight beeners, and a keylock wiregate that is extremely smooth for clipping. The smoothest clip I’ve ever experienced by far. They also come with dyneema slings, in two different sizes, one the normal length, and the second more of a “man-draw” style, which would be helpful for grabbing the draw in desperation (it happens).
Ange Carabiners
This video talks about all the advantages of using Ange carabiners.
Ange Quickdraws and Carabiners
A long but informative video, shows all the features of Ange Quickdraw and carabiner with amazing climbing video.
Petzl Ange Carabiner Review
Petzl Ange Carabiners
Ange carabiner review by Neil Gresham.
Petzl Ange S Review by Outdoor Gear Lab
Instruction for Ange Carabiners
Watch a tour of Petzl's facilities as they explain all the testing involved
Warning: This video is dubbed in English. If you're getting antsy, skip to section 7:40-8:15 for one of the most interesting parts, where they show a hardware specific camera inspection.
Description of how to use with helpful instructional pictures.