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Petzl Verso Side Silver
  • Petzl Verso Side Silver
  • Petzl Verso Front Silver
  • Petzl Verso Back Silver
  • Petzl Verso Blue

Verso 2018

Rating

My vote: None ( 3.9 avg )

Description

The VERSO is a simplified version of the REVERSO³ offering a lighter and more compact option for climbers looking to further reduce the weight/size of their rack of gear. The asymmetrical V-shaped grooved friction channels adapt the friction for better control using our ARC (Adaptive Rope Control) technology.

Ultra-light design:
- 31 % lighter than the Reverso³
- hot-forged aluminum
- Weight: 57 g
Single device for all ropes:
- single ropes ≥ 8.9 mm
- half ropes ≥ 8 mm
- twin ropes ≥ 7.5 mm
-ARC technology adapts to the diameter of rope used by increasing or decreasing the braking friction on the rope according to its diameter and conditions
-Increased friction on thinner ropes
-Adapted friction for efficiency with larger diameter ropes
-Asymmetrical grooved sidewalls decrease friction when taking in slack for greater ease of use
-Super compact design is easy to use and doesn't take up much space on your rack
-Rope friendly design separates the two strands of rope when belaying with half/twin ropes or while rappelling thus helping to prevents kinks
-Stiff keeper cable will not get sucked into the device, helps maintain the optimal position during use, and aids in preventing loss during transitions
-Usage diagram engraved on device for ease of use
-Use with symmetrical shaped locking carabiners (Am'D or OK) to maximize efficiency no matter which end is closest to the device

Retail price

US$ 19.95
Device Type

Device Type

Tube

The most commonly used belay type also called an “ATC” or “tuber.” Other than a distinction between other belay device types, “Tube” is a rarely used term, most climbers just assume you're talking about this style when they refer to your "belay device."

Tube belay device example

Figure 8

Mostly used in rescue, canyoneering, tactical, work safety, or by old school climbers and rappellers. One reason they went out of popularity with recreational climbers is because they tend to create twists in the rope.

Figure 8 belay device example

Brake Assist

These devices assist in stopping the rope when a climber falls or hangs on the rope.

Brake Assist belay device example

Often referred to as “auto-blocking” but that’s not the official terminology because no belay device should be assumed to work automatically by itself, even if it feels like it does (or does most the time).

Plate

When simplicity is a must, or you started climbing before Tubers were the norm. Bonus: They tend to be very light weight.

Plate belay device example

Descender

For rappelling, not for belaying a lead climber or top-roping.

Descender example
Tube
Weight (g)

Weight (g)

In grams, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.

57 g
Belay Brake Assist

Belay Brake Assist

This is when the belay device significantly reduces the amount of holding power the belayer must exert to stop a fall and hold a climber.

This is also called "assisted-braking" as the device must hold a significant amount of the climber’s weight; this term does not include friction-adding "teeth" found on some tube style belay devices.

Confusingly referred to as “auto-blocking” or “auto-locking” these terms wrongly imply the device will always, automatically, stop a fall or hold a climber even if the belayer/rappeller is hands-free. These devices are not meant to be used without a hand on the braking side of the rope; the belayers/rapppeller brake hand should always be on the brake rope.

Worth Considering

Most of the mechanical brake assist devices only hold a single strand of rope and are not capable of double-strand rappelling (the most common method of rappel).

No
Rope Options 1 or 2 ropes
Guide Mode

Guide Mode

This is when you belay directly off the anchor instead of your harness. Guide mode is helpful if you climb outdoors a lot because it reduces the holding power required from the belayer. When your partner falls or rests, the weight of the climber is held mostly by the anchor and the belay device.

Tubers and Plates

When belaying in "guide mode," the tubers and plates turn auto-blocking. During a fall, the climbing rope pinches the slack rope, completely stopping the movement of either rope. A common guide mode setup shown below.

A double rope tubular device guide mode example

Mechanical Brake Assist Devices

There is no difference in the functionality of the device. A brake-hand should always be on the rope to ensure the climber is caught in the case of a fall. A common guide mode setup shown below.

A single rope mechanical brake assist guide mode example

Where guide mode is used

  • multi-pitch sport or trad climbs
  • single-pitch where you need to bring up a follower (say for a walk-off)

Learn More

http://www.climbing.com/skill/essential-skills-auto-blocking-belay-devices/

No guide mode
Teeth

Teeth

Teeth are only seen on tube devices. They add friction that helps grip the rope for more belaying control.

This is helpful for belaying heavier climbers. Teeth are becoming standard on new tube devices.

The belay device teeth are shown in the red circle

Worth Considering

Teeth do wear out. You can limit wear by rappelling on the side without teeth (if you don’t need the extra friction). Once they’re worn, you’ll still have a usable belay device, just less friction.

Yes
Rope Range (mm)

Rope Range (mm)

The range of rope diameters, in millimeters, that the manufacturer/brand specifies can safely be used.

This is the best case scenario and does not necessarily take into consideration that certified ropes have a tolerance of +/- .3 mm.

Recently, manufacturers have started to add an "optimized" rope range -- this is the range that will result in the nicest handling of the belay device.

7.5 mm  - 11.0 mm ­­
single: 8.9 - 11.0 half: 8.0 - 11.0 twin: 7.5 - 11.0
Certification

Certifications

The main climbing gear certifications are CE and UIAA--and normally the UIAA creates the rules that the CE body also supports. When possible, we try to list all the certifications the product carries.

To sell a climbing product in Europe, the device must be CE certified. There are no official requirements to sell climbing gear in the US. The UIAA certification is a voluntary process.

Learn More

Rock and Ice Certifications Guide
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AVG RATING
4.02
( 4 avg )
Rating
4.02
( 4 avg )

Light

Pros
Light
Cons
No guide mode
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton
Disclaimer
I'm not an expert.

Nice and light but no guide mode :( Works very well with the  Petzl Attache 3D

 

Nice and light but no guide mode :( Works very well with the  Petzl Attache 3D

 

Outdoor Gear Lab Gear Review rating 4/5

Overall the Verso fulfills its role as a basic tube-style belay device. These designs are great for new or experienced climbers that appreciate simplicity and a good deal. When compared with its direct competition in this class though, the Black Diamond ATC XP, we noticed a few small drawbacks in lock-off strength and durability. Nevertheless, the Verso is a capable belay device and well worth your consideration.

Watch a tour of Petzl's facilities as they explain all the testing involved

Warning: This video is dubbed in English. If you're getting antsy, skip to section 7:40-8:15 for one of the most interesting parts, where they show a hardware specific camera inspection.