How to use 9.1mm Joker correctly, precautions, lifetime, care and maintenance with instructional pictures.
9.1mm Joker 70m Dry
Description
Here is the ultimate rope, the latest creation of the BEAL LAB, born with the help of the BEAL Team climbers. It's the only rope in the world which conforms to all 3 dynamic rope norms.
The JOKER is in effect at the same time a single rope, a half rope and a twin rope.
This rope will be loved by the most extreme climbers, seeking lightness and easy running, as much as by more traditional climbers seeking a multi-purpose rope for ridge routes or classic face routes, mixed ice and snow, or snow alone.
Retail price
US$ 249.95
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| Weight | 53.0 g/m 8.180 lbs / 3710 g |
| Diameter (millimeters) | 9.1 mm |
| Length (meters) | 70 m |
Rope Type Type
There are 3 types of dynamic ropes that are used by climbers. They are known as Single, Half (Double), and Twin. The type of rope preferred varies by climbing style, location, and region. Single
By far, the most common type of rope. Great for indoors and out. In the US, it is the most common sport and big wall and are also used for trad cragging. The handling is simple and the diameter options are quite varied. Half (Double)
The best cure for a meandering route, only one of the ropes will clip into each piece of protection so a mindful climber can can reduce rope drag considerably. You can also rappel twice the distance, it’s easier to safely protect traverse pitches and there is a smaller chance that both ropes would become damaged (by rockfall, crampons, etc). Twin
Both ropes must be clipped through each piece of protection. This is the lightest style of (two) ropes. They excel for rappels, going twice the distance vs a single rope, but do not have the ability to mitigate rope drag even though there are two ropes. It is unlikely both ropes will be damaged at once, and is why many alpine, ice and mixed climbers choose twin and/or half ropes. Learn More
Every rope type and when to use them | Single |
UIAA Falls (Single / Half / Twin)UIAA FallsThis refers to the number of UIAA falls a rope has been tested to be able to withstand without breaking. The UIAA fall is a complicated test that is designed to create a uniform standard for strength in ropes, and is not generally reflective of real-world climbing situations. The test involves dropping a weight tied to the rope in such a way that it will see the highest amount of force a real-world situation could generate. The UIAA requires that Single and Half ropes must pass this test without breaking at least 5 times, while twin ropes must withstand 12 falls. In practice, it can likely be concluded that ropes that have higher than this standard number of falls will be stronger and put up with more abuse. It is important to note that any rope that is UIAA or EN certified is considered safe to climb on, regardless of the number of UIAA falls it is rated for. | 6 falls / 24 falls / 0 falls |
Dynamic Elongation (Single / Half / Twin)Dynamic ElongationThis refers to the amount of stretch measured during the dynamic testing (or drop test) used when certifying ropes. Higher stretch will absorb more force and result in a softer catch but increases chances of groundfall at the beginning of a climb. The EN and UIAA require a stretch of at least 10% and no more than 40% for dynamic ropes. Single and Half ropes are tested individually and Twin ropes are tested as a pair. | 37.0 % / 0.0 % / 0.0 % |
Static Elongation (Single / Half / Twin)Static ElongationThis refers to the amount of stretch measured during the static test used when certifying ropes. Most climbers will notice the difference in static elongation when climbing in a top rope situation, where higher stretch will make for a springier belay and could result in a ground fall when climbing closer to the ground. The EN and UIAA require a stretch of no more than 10% for Single and Twin ropes and no more than 12% for Half ropes. Single and Half ropes are tested individually and Twin ropes are tested as a pair. | 8.0 % / 0.0 % / 0.0 % |
Impact Force (Single / Half / Twin)Impact ForceImpact force is the amount of force in kN that is measured at the testing mass during the UIAA dynamic drop rope test. When the weight is dropped, the force measured must be at or below 12kN for Single and Twin ropes and 8kN for Half ropes. The real world application of this test is determining that the rope can dissipate and absorb the appropriate amount of force from the fall as it would be felt by the climber. The variables used in the test set a situation that is well beyond anything climbers encounter, and shouldn't be considered realistic to actual climbing situations. In reality forces of this magnitude would result in severe injury as this test is designed to test the limits of the rope and not the comfort of the climber. | 5.60 kN / 7.90 kN / 9.10 kN |
Dry TreatmentDry TreatmentWhen a rope is dry treated, it has had a coating applied to its core fibers, its sheath fibers, or both. The purpose of this coating is to reduce the amount of water the rope can absorb when in wet or icy conditions. Wet ropes are heavier, handle and belay differently, and have been tested to be weaker than dry ropes. Many climbers prefer dry treated ropes for very dusty or dirty environments, as they are more resistant to uptake of dirt and can stay cleaner longer. Learn More
Benefits of Dry vs Non-Dry ropes | Sheath only |
| Sheath Proportion (%) | 35.0 % |
| Sheath Slippage (mm) | 0 mm |
| Type of Middle Mark | Marking |
| Rope End Marker | None |
| Certification | CE, EN, UIAA |
RFID / NFC OptionRFID and NCFThis technology can be helpful if you are a gym or professional business where you'd like to track the usage and age of your ropes. RFID is how items are uniquely identified using radio waves (Radio Frequency Identification). It's for 1-way communication from 10cm to 100m away depending on the frequency. Example: Airport Baggage. NFC is a subset of RFID that is restrained to close proximity communication typically less than 10cm (Near Field Communication). NFC chips can operate a 2-way signal to exchange information. Example: Apple Pay. | Yes, RFID |
No reviews yet.
Ropes that are too stiff are always annoying and cumbersome to work with, and ones with a super soft hand never seem to last as long. The GriGri 2 was perfect with the Joker, feeding rope easily when the leader needed it, but also locked up the GriGri to catch falls securely. I used the Joker on several longer routes as both a single rope, and occasionally as a double rope, with the Guide ATC in auto-locking guide mode. Again, the 9.1mm diameter was great in the belay device, easy to reel in slack even when the second was climbing quickly in alpine terrain, but locking to catch a fall without issue.
The Joker has multiple-personality disorder. This 9.1mm lead cord is the first-ever rope certified for single, half or twin use. At 53 grams per meter, it's also the lightest-weight single rope made, just nudging out the BlueWater Dominator and Mammut Revelation, both 9.2mm single ropes that check in at 55 grams per meter. The 4.2-ounce savings on a 60-meter cord aren't really appreciable, but this multitasking superlight rope does streamline vertical life. You can string up the Joker for your redpoint send, use it double- or twin-style for zig-zagging trad lines, and ditto for ice, alpine, and mountaineering (it's dry treated). In the latter applications, if the rope pulls up shy of the belay, just untie from one end, have the belayer pull it down, then continue, a la Dean Potterr, über-pitch style. At rappels, the rope's midpoint pattern change makes equalizing it through anchors a cinch.
In hand, the five-single-fall Joker ($169 for 60m; $215 for 70m) is wispy yet firm. Though a single rope, it behaves like a double: It rappels fast and won't lock up a belay device as abruptly as a fatter rope. Take precautions: Belay gloves are a yes, but the Grigri, which won't fully lock on the Joker, is a no.
One of our most experienced testers called this rope “one of my all-time favorites, especially for onsight and redpoint attempts.” It rated the highest possible scores for ease of clipping and ease of knotting/untying. Of course, 9.1mm is on the far skinny end of skinny single ropes, and not for beginners or toproping—rope stretch was noticeably long. But for experienced sport climbers looking to redpoint diffi cult projects, this rope was the ticket. Durability wasn’t possible to test in our short winter season, but Beal has a good track record of quality ropes.
Crash Test of 8.6mm Cobra and 9.1 Joker
No voice, but the demo speaks for itself as Beal cuts a traditional rope and a rope with Unicore technology. The difference is certainly dramatic.
Crash Test of 9.1mm Joker
No voice, but the demo speaks for itself as Beal cuts a classical Joker rope and a Unicore Joker rope. The difference is certainly dramatic.
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