Momentum DS
Description
Our most versatile all-purpose harness, the Black Diamond Momentum DS harness features maximum adjustability and range of fit for entry-level use. Dual Speed Adjust buckles on both the waistbelt and leg loops allow for an incredible range of adjustment for multi-season and multi-climber use, while the tall, bullhorn-shaped waistbelt improves comfort during long belays.
Retail price
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Weight (g) WeightIn grams, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand. If there are differences in weight (due to multiple sizes or optional accessories) we'll list them here. The default weight is the middle-most size, often this is size M. | 400 g M : 400 g / 14 oz BD doesn't provide the weights for other sizes so we're working on gathering this info by hand, stay tuned! |
| Fit | Unisex |
| Sizes | XXS, XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL |
Gear LoopsNumber of Gear LoopsGear loops are used to hold gear (quickdraws, cams, etc) onto your harness. 4 gear loops is most common. 
0 - 1 Gear LoopsMost often on full body harnesses or guide/gym style harnesses. 2-3 Gear LoopsMostly found on lighter harnesses made for [ski] mountaineering or high-end sport climbing where weight is a high priority. 4 - 5 Gear LoopsThe standard/most common number for climbing harnesses. Perfect for sport and trad. More Than 6 Gear LoopsDesigned for long multi-pitch and big wall climbing, found on harnesses made to hold the maximum amount of gear. Worth ConsideringOccasionally, the number of gear loops will change on a harness model depending on the size. There could be 7 gear loops for the med/large but only 5 gear loops for the xsmall/small. In this case we list the highest number for the filters, and then write an explanation on the product page like, “Size S/XS can only fit 5 gear loops.” | 4 Gear loops |
Ice Clip SlotsIce Clip SlotIce clipper slots are made to fit a carabiner that holds ice screws. These slots are generally only used by ice climbers but there is no disadvantage to having them on your harness. 
Less than 40% of harnesses will have ice clipper slots. And those harnesses will usually have 2 or 4 slots, often located next to, or between, the gear loops. | No, 0 |
| Belay / Tie-In | One Loop |
| Waist Buckle Type | Quick Adjust |
| Leg Buckle Type | Quick Adjust |
| Drop Seat | Yes |
Haul LoopHaul LoopTrad climbers often look for a haul loop as they're intended to haul a rope (second line) or pack (while you climb the chimney). 
A haul loop can also hold shoes or other accessories. Although not the intended use, it is also commonly used to hold a chalk bag. | Yes (12kN) |
| Certification | CE, UIAA |
| Size Chart | XXS-S Waist: 56-78 cm / 22-31 in XS-M Waist: 69-89 cm / 26-35 in L-XL (will fit the lower range of XXL) Waist: 76-107 cm / 30-42 in |
No reviews yet.
This is a great all-around harness to use when teaching because it will fit a wide variety of students. The small size fits most kids and adults; the bigger size fits most medium to large adults. To make things even easier, Black Diamond offer the Momentum DS Package that comes with everything you need to get started climbing: belay device, carabiner, and chalk bag.
Black Diamond bills the Momentum 3S as an entry-level four-season harness, but unless you are sport climbing at the highest level where the difference of a few ounces might matter to your psyche and self worth, this 13.4-ounce harness is good for anyone, doing anything. Ice climbing and hard mixed climbing being the exceptions, since the Momentum 3S lacks ice-clipper tabs or a place to attach them.
Performance: For trad routes in Joshua Tree, California, and sport missions in Maple Canyon and American Fork, Utah, this addition to the Momentum lineup has proven to be a comfortable and versatile harness with a few upgrades. Black Diamond redesigned the Speed Adjust buckles—which had little issues with slipping in prior testing—by shrinking the space for the webbing to pass through just enough so that the buckles bite firmly without being difficult to tighten and loosen. “I was impressed with the durability,” one western states tester said. “After more than six months of testing, including some burl-fest chimneys, it showed no signs of wear.” Open-hook seat attachments made it easy to drop trou when nature called, and full waist and leg adjustability was ideal for conditions and climbing from hot to cold. “Sport, gym, or trad, the Momentum 3S has
been pure joy thanks to the comfortable webbing and foam insert construction,” one tester said. “Not to mention it’s a steal at $60.” Four pressure-molded gear loops were big enough for every route that wasn’t a big wall, but it maintains an airy weight at 13 oz., so it’s packable and doesn’t add bulk to any gear-intensive backcountry pursuits.
Cons: Sizing seemed small on this model (and other Black Diamond models), so try on before buying or size up with plans to cinch down. Word of caution for short people: Gear loops hang draws and other pro extra-low.
Conclusion: Full adjustability and do-everything design make this nearly perfect for everything on rock. It’s also the least expensive harness in the review, and one of the cheapest on the market.
Introducing 2015 new harnesses.
This video explains all the features and benefits of Momentum and Primrose Harnesses.
