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Black Diamond Xenos Harness Front View
  • Black Diamond Xenos Harness Front View
  • Black Diamond Xenos Harness Side View

Xenos

Rating

My vote: None ( 5.4 avg )

Description

From scrappy mixed caves to perfect blue water ice to imposing alpine faces, winter climbing can encompass a multitude of objectives. Luckily, one harness can handle them all—the Black Diamond Xenos. Built with our Kinetic Core Construction™ and a water-shedding shell material, the Xenos provides unparalleled performance on the wettest, coldest days of the winter. Pre-threaded Forged Speed Adjust buckles on the waistbelt and leg loops easily accommodate changing layers, and four gear loops and six Ice Clipper slots secure all the necessary winter protection.

Retail price

US$ 129.95
Weight (g)

Weight

In grams, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.

If there are differences in weight (due to multiple sizes or optional accessories) we'll list them here.

The default weight is the middle-most size, often this is size M.

398 g

M : 398 g / 14 oz

BD doesn't provide the weights for other sizes so we're working on gathering this info by hand, stay tuned!

Fit Unisex
Sizes XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL
Gear Loops

Number of Gear Loops

Gear loops are used to hold gear (quickdraws, cams, etc) onto your harness. 4 gear loops is most common.

0 - 1 Gear Loops

Most often on full body harnesses or guide/gym style harnesses.

2-3 Gear Loops

Mostly found on lighter harnesses made for [ski] mountaineering or high-end sport climbing where weight is a high priority.

4 - 5 Gear Loops

The standard/most common number for climbing harnesses. Perfect for sport and trad.

More Than 6 Gear Loops

Designed for long multi-pitch and big wall climbing, found on harnesses made to hold the maximum amount of gear.

Worth Considering

Occasionally, the number of gear loops will change on a harness model depending on the size. There could be 7 gear loops for the med/large but only 5 gear loops for the xsmall/small. In this case we list the highest number for the filters, and then write an explanation on the product page like, “Size S/XS can only fit 5 gear loops.”

5 Gear loops
Ice Clip Slots

Ice Clip Slot

Ice clipper slots are made to fit a carabiner that holds ice screws. These slots are generally only used by ice climbers but there is no disadvantage to having them on your harness.

Less than 40% of harnesses will have ice clipper slots. And those harnesses will usually have 2 or 4 slots, often located next to, or between, the gear loops.

Yes, 6
Belay / Tie-In One Loop
Waist Buckle Type Quick Adjust
Leg Buckle Type Quick Adjust
Drop Seat Yes
Haul Loop

Haul Loop

Trad climbers often look for a haul loop as they're intended to haul a rope (second line) or pack (while you climb the chimney).

A haul loop can also hold shoes or other accessories. Although not the intended use, it is also commonly used to hold a chalk bag.

Yes  (12kN)
Certification CE, UIAA
Size Chart

S (will fit the upper range of XS)
Waist: 69-76 cm / 27-30 in
Legs: 48-56 cm / 18-22 in
M
Waist: 76-84 cm / 30-33 in
Legs: 51-61 cm / 20-24 in
L
Waist: 84-91 cm / 33-36 in
Legs: 56-66 cm / 22-26 in
XL (will fit the lower range of XXL)
Waist: 91-99 cm / 36-39 in
Legs: 61-71 cm / 24-28 in

No reviews yet.

Alpinist Gear Review rating 4/5

The Xenos holds up well to abuse with a hydrophobic shell material that keeps it from freezing stiff on wet-and-wild climbs. During a series of freezing, wet-ice days, I forgot to unpack and dry my gear one night. The next day the Xenos was one of the only items not frozen into uselessness by the time we hiked to the day's first pitch. The harness is also foldable and light, while retaining structure—all features I appreciate. While there are drawbacks to the design, I've often used the Xenos over the years for both guiding and personal use.
Pros: Durable, packable, hydrophobic, makes ice climbing and leading ice easier and, thus, safer...something we all appreciate. Can be used year-round as a quiver-of-one harness.
Cons: Weird sizing/design puts the Ice Clipper slots in places that don't work well for me. Would like to see new ideas to address this issue. Buckles can be difficult to manipulate with gloves on.

Details of Xenos Harness