Gear Junkie

As soon as I picked up the Grivel Dark Machine, the exceptionally high center of mass and minimal total weight caused some concern. Usually, the high balance point is a good thing as it adds power to the swing. But I had never swung an axe with such an exaggerated balance point. Since I use hammers on big ice missions, I packed a pair of the Hammer Varios. These would add 2.4 ounces to the back of the head. Yes, it would push the balance point upward. But I reasoned that the added weight..." go to full review

I liked the new SCARPA Mago more than its predecessors. They embraced their niche as a steep-rock specialist more fully, going all in on the genre with a softer, more flexible build that’s retained good edging bite.go to full review

My climbing partners and I tested the Metolius Session II with many other pads. It was one of the few that didn’t get complaints of an uncomfortable carry from anyone — short, tall, man or woman, sometimes on hourlong approaches in the alpine.go to full review

If you want a shoe that both runs and climbs well, the TX Guide is the best shoe I’ve seen. It combines the nimbleness and comfortable feeling of a trail-running shoe with the sticky-soled edging ability of an approach shoe.go to full review

I found the Petzl Fly harness ideal for glacier travel and splitboarding. I can’t speak to more advanced or alpine intentions yet, but for my intended use, the Fly will continue to be my go-to harness. It’s comfortable, light, and you pretty much forget that you’re wearing it while skinning, booting, and riding. Then, add in the sweet packability and the fact that you can put on the harness with skis or board on. Score.go to full review

At first, I was skeptical of this harness design, but it has worked surprisingly well. Whether I was belaying, hanging, or falling, the C-Quence handled the load comfortably. I never felt areas of higher pressure, and the tapered swami never cut into my torso, even during extreme contortions.go to full review

The Mammut Realization Shorts 2.0 provide a freer feeling for the gymnastic movements of sport and competition climbing. But its upsides, utility, and comfort on belay or arresting falls come with a premium price.go to full review

Over time, the Solution Guide did soften a bit, but it’s still stiffer than my other harnesses. Overall, I think that’s a good thing for the requirements of multipitch trad. And the armor supplied by SuperFabric ensures a long tenure, even on sporty types like me who struggle up cracks with immense effort and zero style.go to full review

The Five Ten Grandstone offers the protection and all-day comfort of a classic high-top with enough modern performance enhancements to up the ante. It’s a unique shoe for the category, blending old-school characteristics with modern performance enhancements. It’s an excellent choice for sport climbers who also enjoy trad, providing a more familiar feeling. For this tester, it’s the first high-top trad shoe that didn’t feel clunky.go to full review

The Black Diamond airNet Harness is an outstanding choice for sport climbing. Yes, it’s light, but it’s also comfortable for sport climbing and looks to be durable. The airNet technology performed as intended, and the Infinity belay loop provided a unique advantage. I’ve used other sport climbing harnesses of the “has everything you need, nothing you don’t” ideology. They were safe and light, but there was always a noticeable negative: fussy main buckles, gear loops that didn’t stay open, or..." go to full review