Gear Institute
A superb, hyper-precise, form-fitting, powerful shoe for high-end face, trad, and steep climbing, and bouldering/gym climbing. The Instinct VS has the best heel-hooking heel and toe-scumming patch in the Instinct family, as well as the most aggressive fit (read: least stretch); the elastic tongue with pull-tab lets you worm deep into the toebox, eliminating dead space, while the broad single Velcro closure is comfortable but effective for tweaking fit.go to full review
The La Sportiva TX2 is the nimblest approach shoe of the test; its sock like fit, flexible nature and sticky outsole urge you to almost run to the cliff. The polyester knit upper, soft injection molded midsole and sticky rubber outsole prioritize swiftness over protection to favor light loads and moderate trails.go to full review
The Tenaya Mundaka is an excellent all-around sport climbing shoe with a snug fit with the best closure system of the testing category. This shoe is a great choice for days at the sport crag when the agenda is unknown. The comfort level is also high, particularly for climbers with narrower feet, a bonus when the routes are full length. The only weakness is the lower amount of adhesion to smooth surfaces such as polished limestone when compared to others in the test.go to full review
The Butora Narsha is a well-engineered shoe for slightly overhanging sport climbs where small edges define the route. Easily the best edging shoe of the bunch, it also combines width options, formidable toe and heel hooking and impressively sticky rubber to make it the top choice in specific climbing areas. The “NFS” closure is also a big plus, allowing adjustability of the amount of tension on the big toe from super tight and precise to more comfort for longer routes, and the availability..." go to full review
The Scarpa Drago is a specialized weapon in the war against steep sport routes and boulder problems. As the softest shoe in the test category, the Drago is sensitive and holds the foot and toes in a powerful position for the pulling associated with the steepest stone. Toe hooking was also excellent, and the shoes also hold the top spot for pockets. Being so soft, they aren’t destined for routes dependent on edging, nor are they designed for cracks. The high performance on the steeps is also..." go to full review
The Arc’teryx AR-395a is an excellent choice for climbers looking for an all-around, four season harness to fit every mission. The lightweight and comfortable construction make it work for sport climbing with features that will satisfy many ice and alpine climbers. The gear loops are built for versatility, with removable protective plastic sheaths for more comfortable carrying of a pack, but don’t protrude as much as others which makes it a little harder to access gear. go to full review
The Petzl Sitta’s extremely lightweight and streamlined build makes it a popular option for sport climbers who are looking to shed every ounce and feel free in their movement. Ice clipper attachment points, gear loop dividers and its compact size make it attractive for ice and alpine climbers who want a simple yet effective harness. The lightweight construction of the Sitta comes at the expense of comfort during extended hang sessions and its ability to carry large amounts of heavy gear for..." go to full review
The Petzl Aquila is lightweight and packed with features, making it attractive for a wide range of climbers. Sport climbers will appreciate the comfort, easy movement and smooth buckles. Traditional climbers will enjoy the easy to access gear loops and durable tie-in points.go to full review
The Vibram Montagna sole does what it was intended to do: Kick good platforms in snow to provide climbers with traction when not wearing crampons while resisting abuse. The traditional lacing of the outer boot is nothing special, however the patented speed lace system on the inner boot is a great addition. This feature allows working with the inner boot while wearing big gloves in cold weather. Baruntse is not the boot you want to take to Ouray, Colorado, for ice climbing but it will take..." go to full review
The Vibram Dolent sole does what it was intended to do, kick good platforms in snow to provide the climber with traction when not wearing crampons and be extremely durable. The lacing system of the inner boot and shell are adequate and reliable. This boot is a better performance boot when compared to traditional plastic double boots.go to full review