Vergo
Description
The Vergo emphasizes ergonomics and human-device interaction to deliver exceptionally safe performance. Clear physical and visual indicators reaffirm correct usage, and the geometry reduces the likelihood of misuse. There is never a need to override the device, even when feeding slack for a clip. Smooth feeding and lowering complete the experience.
Retail price
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Device Type |
Brake Assist - Mechanical |
| Weight (g) |
195 g |
| Belay Brake Assist |
Yes |
| Rope Options | 1 rope only |
| Guide Mode |
1 follower only |
| Teeth |
No |
| Rope Range (mm) | 8.9 mm - 10.7 mm |
| Certification |
CE, EN |
No reviews yet.
Having been a die-hard fan of the Petzl Grigri for more than 20 years, I now proclaim that after less than three months of using the Trango Vergo assisted braking belay and rappel device, I am officially a Vergo convert. A light sadness trickles through my body in making this bold statement. Grigris (and wonderful belayers) have caught thousands of my falls, large and small, and kept me from hitting the ground; the Grigri has been right there with me at some of my finest and most memorable moments. Yet here I stand (or sit in front a computer) and type this pronouncement.
The Trango Vergo is a cool active assist braking device that uses a different method for paying out slack to a leading climber that doesn't involve having to manually block the cam, as the other devices in this review do. Because of this, we actually find it the most enjoyable device for belaying a leader. It has few downsides and is relatively easy to learn how to use, and think that those who are curious about active assisted devices but aren't sold on a GriGri should certainly check it out.
The Vergo locked quickly and firmly, according to our tester who used it while training mileage on gym routes. While it lowered, fed slack, and caught falls smoothly, this device shines in the ergonomics department. The Vergo is designed to sit horizontally when in use, and testers found it was a natural position that “caused a lot less short-roping than other devices.” Thumb and pointer-finger grooves helped testers hold the device correctly. This required some adaptation, as most devices recommend holding the brake side of the rope and only touching the device to feed slack quickly. Once testers learned that aspect, the Vergo “made complete sense and was practically flawless.” Plus, even if testers pinched the device as hard as possible, they couldn’t override the camming unit. Loading the rope was “a bit bumbly” because testers had to move the plates and handle out of the way. Testers found the method of unlocking the device after short-roping the leader to be challenging because of the nuanced movement, but short-roping was a rarity.
As every manufacturer, Trango wanted the handling and operation of the Vergo to be highly intuitive. Thus, they added natural cues that indicate how to hold the device. This includes a thumb knob and a forefinger rest to encourage the most ideal holding position. These added usability features are beneficial for strongly reinforcing proper belay technique, especially as more and more new climbers enter the sport.
As I mentioned, I don’t believe it’s fair to penalize the Trango Vergo for what, to me, felt like a lengthy learning curve simply because that aspect exists for virtually any belay device.
However, I do think it’s fair to compare the Vergo to the GRIGRI 2. And on that comparison, the Vergo, to me, falls short.
If you’re a new climber who is looking to purchase your first assisted-locking belay device, I think the Vergo might certainly be worth a strong consideration.
If you’ve got tons of experience with the GRIGRI, but you are wondering whether the Vergo might be a replacement or an upgrade in terms of safety, then I would probably suggest sticking the GRIGRI. The Vergo is certainly a solid contender, but to me, the GRIGRI is still king.
After four months of testing in a variety of climbing scenarios using numerous ropes in different diameters, I am happy to report the Vergo always impressed with its safety, performance and ease of use. So, whether you’re new to the sport and are ready to purchase your first mechanically assisted belay device or have been climbing for decades and have lost count of the rope grabbing contraptions that have passed through your gnarled mits, consider putting the Trango Vergo at the top of your shopping list.
I’ve been using the Vergo for several months now, and one of the reasons Trango sent me one early was because they knew I’m a huge GriGri fan and very skeptical of competitors. Before the Vergo I would have said there were some OK alternatives, but nothing I had tried would ever replace the GriGri for me. That has changed with the Vergo, as much as it pains me to say anything negative about my beloved GriGri, and there are plenty of days when it’s the only device I take with me to the crag.
