How to use DMM Quickdraw, Maintenance and Servicing, warnings and lifespan with instructional pictures.
Alpha Sport 18cm
Wouldn’t it be great if, in that heart-in-mouth grip-clip moment, you knew that at least the quickdraw was on your side?
When we designed the Alpha Clip we were determined to produce the most ‘clip friendly’ biner ever made. The bent gate, with its flared-out barrel shape works in perfect harmony with the kinked and groove-patterned back bar. It just feels so right, handles so well, and most importantly the rope always goes in first time. Try it out and you’ll see what we mean.
The Alpha Clip is available as the Alpha Sport Quickdraw. This combines the Alpha Pro at the bolt/peg end and the Alpha Clip left to handle the rope.
-The ultimate bent gate, sport climbing biner
-Strong and lightweight I-Beam construction
-Safer, deeper rope basket
-Easy to handle, grippy shape
-Generous 8.5mm rope radius
-Clean nose profile to reduce snagging
-Available as the Alpha Sport, a vari-width nylon quickdraw in 12cm, 18cm or 25cm lengths
The DMM Alpha Sport is a grade-A quickdraw for dedicated sport climbers. It’s strong, buttery smooth to clip, and super durable. But I think my favorite feature is the stylish DMM logo on the dog bone that makes it look like you’re sponsored.
Which is why I’m a huge fan of the DMM Alpha Sport Draw. These quickdraws seem to be created for ease of use and a luxurious clip. “They clip themselves”, a climber partner of mine said after using mine. The dog bone is also a healthy size (26mm) for picking it off your harness and clipping in, or at a last resort grabbing the draw at a bolt to clip in and avoid taking the whipper.
There is little to be critical of, as the Alpha Sport is a near perfect quickdraw for sport climbers. At 113g it’s heavier than its two main rivals, the 104g Petzl Spirit and the Black Diamond Livewire at 106g, but for the redpointers the Alpha Sport is aimed at this is unlikely to be a problem. The grey colour scheme is professional and sleek but, as this features on so much of their kit, a more distinctive colourway might have been a good idea. Top Lakes dark-horse Jon Freeman told me they “look boring”, though he did concede that they were nice to clip! [NB: You might be in luck Dave (and Jon), new colours may appear in the future, as per the red image at the top of the page. R+R]
My only substantial criticism would be that the loop at the bolt end of the sling is a little too wide, meaning that the pro clip can be a bit loose for stick clipping. Those who use proper clip sticks won’t find this a problem, but when we were using the dirt bag (tree branch and stone) method this got quite irritating!
All things considered, I would recommend the DMM Alpha Sport highly. Above all their other great features, the smooth and reliable clipping they facilitate puts them at the top of the tree for me.
In use I found the Alpha Sport quickdraws just brilliant, the carabiners performed in all sport climbing situations from on sighting to redpointing. They came into their own when working routes. The Alpha Pro was big enough to get my hand into when I needed to pull up and the chunky sling was great when my hands were sweaty. Both the Alpha Pro and the Alpha Clip had a ridged spine, the added friction it offered was welcome in the high to reach clips.