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Light

Ushba

Liberty Mountain
Liberty Mountain Ushba
4.32

In Soviet Russia, Nut Tools You

Pros
Light
wide hammering area
Cons
It's a bad spoon...

It's titanium (oooo ahhh).
It's light.
It's strong.
The end has ample area for you to strike you hand on, unlike a bunch of other nut tools.
It's made in the motherland.

Best of all; it doesn't come with a stupid leash.

Nano 23

CAMP
CAMP Nano 23 Full View
2.58

Light, but lacking

Pros
Light
it won't kill you...
Cons
Action
small
it'll drive you insane...

The action on other CAMP biners (especially the photon) is wonderful, but it's disappointing that the action on the nano sucks so hard that it renders this biner almost useless. The gate is very stiff and takes a large amount of force to open it fully, and while it's heavy handed, it's not consistent in the force needed to open the gate either. Push hard at the start, then you have to really crank on the thing from about halfway to fully open. Given that the action on the other microbiners on the market (Metolius Mini), it's obvious CAMP did a terrible job designing and implementing the gate spring on the nano.

On the positive side; they are pretty great for racking. Small, very light, and they come in a "rackpack" full of colors to color coordinate your cams. Since I don't have to fully open the gate to get the biners on and off my harness, I don't mind the shitty action. They're slightly cheaper than their Metolius brothers too.

I prefer the other sub 23g biners out there to the nano. The gate action is just so horrendous that it kills them for me. Good freaking luck trying to clip a rope into these while you're pumping out. Let's not even talk about using these on ice climbs with gloves on.

If my partner would pull out a rack of these on draws, I wouldn't let him take any. If he insisted, I'd beat him with them.

Use them for racking; or beating some sense into climbers who use these to clip into ropes.

Cinch

Trango
Trango Cinch
5.16

My Favorite Assisted Locking Belay Device As of Now

Pros
Light
Small
Simple to Use
Cons
Hair Trigger Release Handle
It Might Pinch Your Rope More Than Other Devices

I bought my first Cinch in Sept of 2006. We used it for top ropping only until I figured out the special holding position for lead belaying. Now it is my favoriate device to lead belay with. It allows me to payout the rope really quickly without locking up. For some reason I always have an issue with locking up the GRI GRI when I do quick payouts during a lead belay. With the Cinch I am guaranteed not to short rope you.

Elios

Petzl
Petzl Elios Helmet
4.32

No Qualms With This Helmet

Pros
Light
Hard
Pretty Comfortable
Cons
Not the most attractive looking helmet because it sits high

I have owned two of these helmets and have been completely happy with everything about it. Need a helmet and don't have any specific criteria for what you need to wear, than just grab this one. It will meet your every need.

ATC Guide 2018

Black Diamond
Black Diamond ATC Guide Green
6

For the people who just like to climb

I own a lot of ATCs, but if I could only own one, this would be it. Belay a second, assisted catch on lead, light, safe, exactly what you want. It works well in every situation, and the only reason you would want something else would be if you aren't that comfortable belaying or you know your climber will spend a lot of time hang dogging a route. Those situations call for a grigri, but everything else, 95% of climbing, this is the one that you want.

Neon

Wild Country
Wild Country Neon Full View
4.32

Super slick little locker

Pros
Light
Nice Gate Action
Cons
A little small

I bought a couple of these babies to use for multi-pitch sport routes. My only complaint would be they are on the small side for a locker. But unless you need to stuff a giant rope in it, it should be able to handle almost everything you'd want. I love using it as a belay biner with a 9.6mm or smaller rope. If you're looking for a Locker to slip into the power point of your 1" webbing anchor, I'd suggest something bigger. But for almost any other application, these little beauties perform like a charm. And you get a locker at the weight of many of the non-lockers on the market. They're tough to beat in my opinion.

Nitro

Wild Country
Wild Country Nitro Tech Wire Full View
6

It's Friday, I'm in love

Pros
Lightweight
size
great gate opening
acts like keylock even though it's not...
price
Cons
NONE

This is my favorite biner (perhaps because I can't afford the Wild Country Heliums). I talk about how nice this biner is on basically every climb. It's just awesome. It actually makes me happy when I clip with it. Where to begin? The gate opening is large, and the gate action is incredibly easy and smooth—so much better than the BD Neutrinos. I wish this came in different colors, I'd be happy to rack with these as well. For draws they're excellent; they're super easy to clip into gear/bolts/chains/whatever. The nose is basically keylock—it is extremely rare for it to catch on anything. If you can't afford the amazing Heliums, then the Nitro's are definitely the nicest 2nd option. In fact, you could save your money, get these and still be totally happy.

Astro

Wild Country
Wild Country Astro Carabiner
4.32

Best of the uber-lights

Pros
Light
easy gate action
nose doesn't snag much even though it's not keylock...
Cons
small gate opening

I use these biners (w/ a locker) for my cordelette. For me they (along with all the other super lightweight biners) have too small of a gate opening for me to easily rack with them (practice makes perfect?...). Either way, I like having this biner around. I've used them on draws before and they worked, but I haven't done it since--they're just not as awesome as the WC Nitros (or Heliums), but those full-size biners aren't really a fair comparison. Compared to other micro-biners I like this one the most.