Instruction for using DMM Nut and warnings, maintenance and lifespan with instructional pictures.
Brass Offset 3
Think of your rack as a box of magical tricks designed to help you tame even the trickiest of climbs. When the going gets tough Brass Offsets are one of the best tricks you can try.
Imagine the situation: high on a test piece route you grind to a halt, miles out from the last decent runner. It’s time to contemplate your next move. The rock in front of you presents no normal runner placements, all that you have to play with are narrow, shallow cracks, the type that happen to be slightly flared too.
You have seen other climbers turn tail and make a cowering retreat from this very point, but you find some placements for your trusty offsets. Once they are clipped, off you go forging a line to the top of the route, each upward step given a confidence boost by those magic little nuts glinting in the sun.
Okay, so that is quite a fanciful story, but if truth be told most cracks are actually flared. Once you’ve started using Offsets, be they the bigger alloy ones or these smaller brass ones, it soon becomes hard to imagine going climbing without them.
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If you are into aid climbing then you pretty much need a set of these, maybe two. They aren't designed for everyday use (unless like Chris McNamara you go through stretches where you seem to climb El Cap nearly every day). Constant use will beat them up compared to aluminum models but if micro-protected free climbs are your game then these should be the first brass nuts to reach for.
The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.
A pictoral representation of the UIAA-124 and EN-12270 standards for chocks (which includes nuts and hexes).