A pictoral representation of UIAA-105 and EN-12277 standards for harnesses.
The Momentum SA is technically retired but it's still sold online.The Momentum SA is no longer produced by Black Diamond. We're showing it as "available" on WeighMyRack because you can still find it at trustworthy online retailers.
An all-around harness for everyone from the first-time climber to the seasoned hardman, the Black Diamond Momentum SA features our Dual Core Construction to provide an expert balance of comfort, ventilation and durability. Dual Core Construction uses two slim bands of high-tensile webbing on the outer edges of the waistbelt and a venting OpenAir foam insert in the center to balance comfort and breathability without pressure points. Our trakFIT leg loop adjustment system uses a simple, secure slide adjuster to quickly and easily adjust the diameter of the leg loop and provide a wide range of fit.
Pre-threaded SpeedAdjust buckle on waistbelt
Bullhorn-shaped OpenAir waistbelt built using Dual Core Construction
Patent-pending trakFIT leg adjustment for easy, worry-free adjustability of OpenAir leg loops
Adjustable releasable rear elastic riser
4 pressure-molded gear loops
12 kN-rated haul loop
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In grams, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.
If there are differences in weight (due to multiple sizes or optional accessories) we'll list them here.
The default weight is the middle-most size, often this is size M.
| 400 g|
|Sizes||XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL|
Number of Gear Loops
Gear loops are used to hold gear (quickdraws, cams, etc) onto your harness. 4 gear loops is most common.
0 - 1 Gear Loops
Most often on full body harnesses or guide/gym style harnesses.
2-3 Gear Loops
Mostly found on lighter harnesses made for [ski] mountaineering or high-end sport climbing where weight is a high priority.
4 - 5 Gear Loops
The standard/most common number for climbing harnesses. Perfect for sport and trad.
More Than 6 Gear Loops
Designed for long multi-pitch and big wall climbing, found on harnesses made to hold the maximum amount of gear.
Occasionally, the number of gear loops will change on a harness model depending on the size. There could be 7 gear loops for the med/large but only 5 gear loops for the xsmall/small. In this case we list the highest number for the filters, and then write an explanation on the product page like, “Size S/XS can only fit 5 gear loops.”
|4 Gear loops|
|Ice Clip Slots|
Ice Clip Slot
Ice clipper slots are made to fit a carabiner that holds ice screws. These slots are generally only used by ice climbers but there is no disadvantage to having them on your harness.
Less than 40% of harnesses will have ice clipper slots. And those harnesses will usually have 2 or 4 slots, often located next to, or between, the gear loops.
|Belay / Tie-In||One Loop|
|Waist Buckle Type||Quick Adjust|
|Leg Buckle Type||Quick Adjust|
Trad climbers often look for a haul loop as they're intended to haul a rope (second line) or pack (while you climb the chimney).
A haul loop can also hold shoes or other accessories. Although not the intended use, it is also commonly used to hold a chalk bag.
|Size Chart|| |
S (will fit the upper range of XXS)
Introducing 2015 new harnesses.
This video explains all the features and benefits of Momentum and Primrose Harnesses.
No voice but very informative video for the Momentum SA, Primrose SA, Momentum AL and Primrose AL Harness users.
The Black Diamond Momentum SA is the speed adjust buckle version of the popular Black Diamond Momentum AL. If you like adjustable legs loops and self locking (aka speed adjust) buckles, this is a great value and a great first climbing harness. It is comfortable, has great gear loops, tons of features and costs $60. You have to spend a LOT more money to get just minor improvements in weight, comfort or features.
Many older climbing harnesses, and some new climbing harnesses, had a buckle that you had to double back the webbing to secure. It is a very common error to forget to double back this buckle, it is also a potentially deadly error. The SA in Momentum SA stands for Speed Adjust, also known as a speed buckle. This type of buckle is secure at all times, no need to double back. We think this increases safety and feel so strongly about it we don’t recommend any harnesses without speed buckles.
The Momentum SA also has adjustable leg loops, which helps your harness fit your naked legs in the summer or over your insulated pants in the winter. Adjustable leg loops also means that you are more likely to be able to have your harness fit a friend if you need to switch off harnesses. Like the speed adjust buckle on the waist these leg adjust buckles are always secured, no need to double back. Some lightweight harnesses go without adjustable leg loops to save a couple ounces, which is OK if the leg loops happen to fit you perfectly, but we think the flexibility of adjustable leg loops at the minimal extra weight is totally worth it.
With sculpted, compression-molded padding, the Momentum AL maintains its shape, one of the attributes I most appreciated. When you take the harness out of your pack, it isn’t all twisted up and you can quickly discern the right from left leg loop. I found the leg loops and swami supple and while hanging for hours on end, I didn’t notice any pressure points.
For a one-harness-does-it-all model, I give the Momentum two thumbs up. If you prefer the convenience of single-pass speed buckles, that feature is available on the same harness, the Momentum SA. Women can check out their version of the Momentum, the Primrose AL.
Performance: For trad routes in Joshua Tree, California, and sport missions in Maple Canyon and American Fork, Utah, this addition to the Momentum lineup has proven to be a comfortable and versatile harness with a few upgrades. Black Diamond redesigned the Speed Adjust buckles—which had little issues with slipping in prior testing—by shrinking the space for the webbing to pass through just enough so that the buckles bite firmly without being difficult to tighten and loosen. “I was impressed with the durability,” one western states tester said. “After more than six months of testing, including some burl-fest chimneys, it showed no signs of wear.” Open-hook seat attachments made it easy to drop trou when nature called, and full waist and leg adjustability was ideal for conditions and climbing from hot to cold. “Sport, gym, or trad, the Momentum 3S has
been pure joy thanks to the comfortable webbing and foam insert construction,” one tester said. “Not to mention it’s a steal at $60.” Four pressure-molded gear loops were big enough for every route that wasn’t a big wall, but it maintains an airy weight at 13 oz., so it’s packable and doesn’t add bulk to any gear-intensive backcountry pursuits.
Cons: Sizing seemed small on this model (and other Black Diamond models), so try on before buying or size up with plans to cinch down. Word of caution for short people: Gear loops hang draws and other pro extra-low.
Conclusion: Full adjustability and do-everything design make this nearly perfect for everything on rock. It’s also the least expensive harness in the review, and one of the cheapest on the market.
The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.