As the name suggests, the new instinct slipper inspires the climber to follow their instinct, allowing fast and precise foot placements in any direction thanks to its “straight forward“, down turned last shape.
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|Weight|| 200 g|
Single : 200 g / 7.05 oz (Size 40)
European sizes 34-45, including half sizes.|
From your measured size, you'll want to consider downsizing .5 - 2 full sizes. The flatter the shoe, the closer to your measured size; the more downturned / aggressive the shoe, the more you'll want to downsize....
|Best Use (Highest Performance)||
Sport / Face|
|Last Details|| Shape: Arched (technical)|
Last : FQ Scarpa considers last information super top secret so we can’t define the last types further than the initials FQ. But, if you find a Scarpa shoe that fits, any Scarpa shoes with the same last initials will fit your foot in a very similar way.
|Sole Material|| 3.5 mm VIBRAM® XS Grip2|
VIBRAM® XS Grip2
Video shows how and where Scarpa shoes are made.
SCARPA has really made something for everyone with this shoe in three different styles. A unique feature that they all share is SCARPA’s patent pending Bi-Tension rand. This innovative use of the rand acts like a reverse slingshot, pulling power from the toes rather than jamming them forward. The rand anchors under the toe box, giving focused power and a surprising amount of comfort. Another plus they all share is a minimal amount of rubber compared to many rock shoes, making them quite light. Asymmetrical toe boxes make these bad boys edging machines and a slightly downturned toe gives them power for pulling.
I found both models to be confidence-boosting performers, especially on vitreous limestone smears and rounded sandstone edges. The slipper was both a sensitive and powerful edging shoe. The lace-up shoe was great at edging, and was a more reliable heel-hooker. Despite being sized snugly, the slipper often failed on more demanding heel-grappling situations such as The Buddha (V6) at the Gunks.
The asymmetric, downturned Instinct grabs holds on the steeps better than any shoe in this review. The substantial and semi-stiff midsole also enables precise edging—a quality you don’t normally find in a slipper. Generous rubber atop the toe box provides excellent toe hooking, jamming, and scumming. Fit them tight and you’ll also get superior heel hooking—another quality normally reserved for lace-ups or Velcros. Made with 3mm Vibram XS Grip2 rubber and a Lorica upper, the Instinct is Scarpa’s most sensitive shoe. They hold their shape over time, so expect them to stretch half a size at most. One seasoned tester summed up the Instinct when he called them the “best, most versatile slippers I’ve ever climbed in, hands down.”