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Edelrid Pure Slider Locking Carabiner
  • Edelrid Pure Slider Locking Carabiner
  • Edelrid Pure Slider Locking Carabiner
  • Edelrid Pure Slider Locking Carabiner

Pure Slider

Edelrid

Rating

My vote: None ( 5.2 avg )

Description

Pure carabiner with a locking slide gate - ideal for traverses or wandering routes.

* Locking slide-gate mechanism minimizes risk of accidental gate opening
* Easy-operation slide-gate mechanism for fast clipping
* H-profile construction ensures best possible use of material and minimal weight

Retail price

US$ 17.95

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Weight (g)

Weight (g)

In grams, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.

42 g
Shape

Shape

Rule of thumb

Almost every carabiner you use will be non-locking offset D’s, with the exception of a Pear/HMS locker as your belay ‘biner.

Offset D (aka Modified D)

60% of the market

A modification of the standard D shape, the top of an offset D is much wider, allowing for a larger (and superior) gate opening. When loaded, most of the weight is transferred to the spine of the carabiner making them stronger than most other shapes. Used for top and bottom quickdraws, as racking carabiners, and lightweight lockers.

Pear / HMS

22% of the market

The Pear/HMS carabiner is used primarily for belaying and/or setting a powerpoint in an anchor. The wide top means they can hold a lot of gear. They are almost always locking and are generally heavier (than D/offset D's) because they need more material to gain back strength lost due to their shape.

Oval

8% of the market

The first carabiner shape to be mass produced. When loaded, the pressure is shared equally on both sides of the ‘biner. Since the weaker gate shares the load with the spine, oval biners aren’t as strong as shapes that direct the load to the spine. The bonus is, your gear rests squarely in the middle, so it's great for holding nuts, pulleys, and prusiks.

D (aka symmetric D)

7% of the market

D’s have a symmetrical shape that sets the rope closer to the spine, putting the load on the spine (versus sharing the load with the weaker gate side, like the oval). Since the strongest part of the carabiner carries the weight, D’s are the strongest shape. Downside: Smaller gate openings than the offset D.

Quicklink (aka Oval link, Mallon)

1% of the market

Although most climbers wouldn’t refer to this shape as a “carabiner” they are certified by the same EN standard as all the other carabiners. These semi-permanent links ensure the gate will not accidentally open. They're used when setting up a semi-permanent rappel station (not used while climbing up).

Semi-Circle / 3D

less than 1% of the market

Semi-circle: Mostly used by Search and Rescue as this is a great way to secure a chest harness.
3-D: Designed to increase the gate opening and to reduce the chance that the rock will rub your rope and/or the locking gate open. Buy if you’re the curious type; they’re not cheap, and there’s not many in the US.

Learn More

Pros and cons of each shape, graphs and more examples
Offset D
Locking

Locking

main non-locking carabiners uses:

  • quickdraws
  • to rack (hold) your gear on your harness
  • part of an anchor setup

main locking carabiners uses:

  • belay carabiner
  • main anchor powerpoint
  • when you need the gate to stay shut

screw gate vs auto-locking gate

Screw gates are generally lighter and cheaper.

Auto-locking gates are usually considered safer as they automatically snap shut, not counting on one's memory to close and are harder to accidentally unlock. The debate comes on opening speed as some are much faster while others can be a struggle.

Learn More

See the newest auto-locking gate technologies
Auto
Straight or Bent

Straight or Bent

It's easier to see the difference between straight and bent gates on solid gate carabiners:

Straight Gate

The standard. Always used as the bolt-end of the quickdraw, and still sometimes used on the rope-side too. Also used for racking gear such as cam and nuts.

Bent Gate

Created to make it easier to put the rope into a quickdraw with their larger gate opening. Primarily used on the rope-end (bottom) of quickdraws.

Extra Notes

  • Choosing a bent or straight gate does not significantly change the weight, strength, or price of the carabiner.
  • All locking carabiners have straight gates.
  • Today, many wiregates have a hybrid almost-straight-but-kinda-bent gate and are offered in this version only (not as a classic a bent or straight option). We have classified these as bent gates since they're not totally straight.

Important Note

Many manufacturers are now making the bolt-end carabiner come standard in silver (to match the bolt color), and are coloring the rope-end with other anodizations.

Do not mix (interchange) bolt-end carabiners and rope-end carabiners. This can be very dangerous as small abrasions made by the bolt can easily wear your rope. DMM put out a great video/write-up on this issue.

Straight
Full Size

Full Size

Full size carabiners are easier to hold but generally they're also heavier.

This is a totally debatable field as there is no official size, weight, or gate opening necessary to be full size. There are no certifications and this isn't a standard the manufacturer's normally describe specifically.

We did our best to compare (descriptions, in-person use, etc), as a way to help give more information about this carabiner. Like always, if you see something that seems totally off, send us a note.

Yes
Keylock

Keylock

A keylock nose means the nose is smooth. Keylock carabiners are also known as: snag-free, notch-less, and hook-less.

Keylock Benefit

The lack of a hooked nose makes for less snagging on gear and bolts – a dramatic improvement.

Keylock Drawback

Given that they’re more complicated to manufacture, keylock designs often come at a higher price, especially in wiregates.

Worth Considering

There are more design features necessary to guarantee a snag-free experience, like the curvature of the nose. Some keylock carabiners will still catch on the nose because of the lack of a smooth nose arc (smoother the arc, smoother the clip).

Learn More

Check out our blogpost that goes over carabiner nose design to get all the details
Yes
Solid or Wire

Solid or Wire

Solid Gates

Generally on beefier carabiners, so they're usually heavier and more durable. They can also feel more substantial in your hands while clipping. Often favored by sport climbers.

Wire Gates

Featured on the lightest carabiners, so they're favored by trad and alpine climbers.

Some considerations

If you want keylock nose carabiners, then solid gates will be much cheaper compared to wire gates.

When wiregates first came out they were not trusted (too new, looked too simple). Now, it's proven that wiregates have less gate flutter and gate shutter than solid gates.

Learn More

Compare gate flutter and gate shutter
Solid
Gate Opening

Gate Opening (mm)

Gate opening refers to the distance between a carabiner’s nose and the fully open gate.

General Guidelines

top of your quickdraw: 17 mm – 22 mm
bottom of your quickdraw: 23 mm – 26 mm
as an anchor holding webbing/gear: 19 mm+

Adding bias towards a larger gate opening is a great option once you’ve narrowed your choice to a few similar carabiners and need help determining which one is the best.

Learn More

Gate opening comparisons, examples, averages, shape, sizes, graphs, and explanations
18 mm
Number of Colors

Number of Colors

The number of different colors that you can find this carabiner in. This color-coding practice was started with just 2 colors, usually silver (that goes on the bolt side of a quickdraw) and another color for the rope side. Now, carabiners come in 5+ colors sets known as "rack packs" so your carabiners can match your cams.

Climbers can also match their carabiner color to their harness or other gear just for fun.

Learn More

Carabiner Rack Packs Explained
3
Visual Warning

Visual Warning

A visual warning is only seen on locking carabiners. It adds another tell to show if the carabiner is locked or not. If the carabiner is not locked, you'll see a warning such as the color red, a danger sign, or an unlocked image.

Only a small list of manufacturers add this safety feature, although you can easily add one yourself with a permanent marker.

No
Strengths (kN)

Strengths (kN)

In kilonewtons, the strength, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.

Major Axis Closed Gate Strength

This is the strongest orientation and the way carabiners are designed to be loaded.

Major Axis Open Gate Strength

This strength is measured because while climbing, carabiners lying against the rock can be opened slightly as they move across an uneven surface. A carabiner can also open slightly during a fall as the ‘biner starts to vibrate, dispersing the energy (also called "gate flutter"). A weak gate closure (due to a poor/failing spring or an over-stressed wire) could also leave the gate ajar.

Minor Axis Gate Strength

Carabiners are not intended to be loaded along the minor axis (cross-loaded), but it is possible for a carabiner to unintentionally rotate during use, especially while belaying. Of all accidental misuses of a carabiner, cross-loading is the most frequent suspect, which is why there is a rating for it.

Generally wire gates are stronger than solid gates in the minor axis. During the test, the wire gate bends, absorbing some of the force, as compared to a less pliable solid gate.

Learn More

How carabiners are rated, recommendations and strengths.
  23 kN   8 kN    8 kN
Brief Introduction to Edelrid Strike and Slider Carabiners
Edelrid Pure Slider
AVG RATING
4.02
( 4 avg )
Rating
4.02
( 4 avg )

I love them but...

Pros
Nice locking mechanism (look at the cons)
Light
Cons
The slide mechanism stop closing right after a few months of use
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton
Disclaimer
I STILL LOVING THEM xD

I've been using this carabiners for more than 2 years, i loved the slide mechanism... i dont have screw gate carabiners, all my carabiners are auto, and almost all my carabiners are edelrid with slide mechanism or twist mechanism.

The grace of auto carabiners is that you dont have to worry closing them, you let go the gate an they close automatically... well this slide thing worked fine for months, you loose the gate and it close, but after some use this stopped going that way, now everytime i let go the gate i have to close it by hand...

The thing is that when you loose the gate the slide pin normally hit the keylock, then slides down and allow the gate to take the close position then it goes up again closing the gate, but after some use this stopped, you loose the gate and when the pin hit the keylock it don't go down, it stay in that position, so you have to slide it down by hand to close correctly the carabiner, other way of doing this is full opening the gate and loosing the gate from this full open position, so it take more speed/power and close automatically in one step, but that is not the idea on an auto mechanism...

I think this isue could be solved putting some lubricant on the mechanism or cleaning it with compressed air.

 In case you think i have some factory failed carabiners thats not the case, i have 8 pure slider, 1 strike slider and a strike slider FG, and all of them started doing this after some months of use, so its not an isolated issue. I take care of my equipment, they are not full of dust or dirt.

Alpine/ice climbing use: i don't have any issue using the locking mechanism with gloves 

 

 

Climbing Gear Reviews UK Performance 4/5 Quality 5/5 Value 4/5

The slider was extremely simple to operate-just slide down and push the gate open. This became automatic with just a little practice and was easy enough to operate with thin gloves on. Of course the typical human brain can conjure all sorts of scenarios in which the gate might accidently open, such as the rope sliding over the mechanism or a sling twisting over it. But in all my 30+ years of climbing I have never had any sort of carabiner accidently opening and the stories I hear are usually freak occurrences. So the probability is the locking mechanism will work perfectly well in most conditions – as it has for us throughout the test period.

Climbing Gear Review

From the school of simple, light, and ingenious comes this locking mechanism from the engineering wizards at Edelrid. It includes a small sliding tab on the outside of the gate near the nose; just place your thumb over the tab, push down and in, and the gate unlocks and opens almost simultaneously. “It’s the easiest locking mechanism I’ve ever used because there’s no new motion to learn,” one tester said. “It’s muscle memory I already have.” Since it’s an auto-locker, you don’t have to keep checking to make sure your gates are locked. And at only 1.5 times the weight of a light non-locker (1.5 oz.), you can carry a few extra on a long route without worrying about adding too much heft. “With a minimal weight penalty and easy-open system, there’s no reason not to pack a few,” said one tester who used this biner as the first clip on a sketchy sport climb in
Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado.

The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.