How to use Metolius Cam, how cam works, lifespan, care and maintenance with instructional pictures.
Offset Master Cam 3/4
• Offsets are composed of two small lobes and two larger lobes to fit flared placements and pin scars
• A flexible, single stem unit with an ultra-narrow head width for hard aid or free climbing
• Molded thumb piece
• 13 mm (0.51") Monster Sling webbing (36% Dyneema/64% nylon)
• Range Finder tells you at a glance if you've chosen the right size cam for the placement
• Optimized cam angle for more outward force
• Machined cam stops
• Color-coded sewn slings and tubing
• CNC machined for much greater precision than stamped or extruded cams
• 7075-T6 aluminum
• 6 Sizes: #00/0 -#4/5
• Hand built, inspected and individually proof tested in Bend, Oregon
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|Weight (g / oz)|
Weight (g / oz)
In grams and ounces, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.
|87.0 g / 3.00 oz|
|Cam Head||4 lobes, single axle|
|Offset||Yes, offset for irregular cracks|
|Stem||Flexible single stem|
|Sling||9 cm x13 mm Nylon / Polyamide (single loop)|
|Camming Angle||13° (angle is consistent throughout)|
|Active Strength|| 10 kN|
|Cam Range (mm / in)|
Cam Range (mm / in)
In millimeters and inches, the maximum dimensions of the cam lobes when shut tight and fully extended. Since the "usable" range is so debatable, all manufacturers now list the full dimensions to avoid confusion.
If a manufacturer lists the usable range, we'll include it here as well (this is now very rare).
| Total dimensions|
22 mm x 30 mm / 1 in x 1 in
|Materials|| Main Material: 7075-T6 aluminum|
Beth Rodden shows you how to inspect and maintain your cams.
These excel in Yosemite, Zion or any area with flared cracks and pin scars. They are best paired with non offset cams. For example, on a typical El Capitan route I would take 1-2 sets of these and 2 sets of non offset cams. In a place like Indian Creek, where the cracks are perfectly parallel, these cams do not work well.
Our testers absolutely loved the Metolius Offset Master Cams. Using and placing the cams is really easy and confidence inspiring. If you’ve never used a Master Cam you will really dig the color coded dots along the outer edge of the larger sizes. Green against the rock – good, yellow – iffy, red – better put in a bigger cam, or get another piece in as soon as you can find another placement. Although no one likes to fall on gear, falling on a well placed Offset Master Cam really keeps your mind on the game. The machined lobes dig into the rock whether its granite or gneiss. The flexible stems can take a big fall without permanently kinking the stem (usually). The color coding on the sling and thumb look helps you to keep track of what you’re looking for. The colors match up with the standard Master Cam colors, except the thumb loop is one color and the sling is another so you know which two sizes you’re getting. The Offset Master Cam’s aren’t the lightest cams available, but they aren’t whales either.
Overall, these cams are highly recommended. Now I know there are the die hard Alien supporters out there, and to them these are probably the Anti-Alien, but if you want an offset cam that’s well made and gives you options for pro when nothing else will work, these are worth a look.
ust when it seemed like thin-crack pro couldn’t get any sleeker or more specialized, the innovators at Metolius Climbing introduced Offset Master Cams, an update to the single-stem units that tweaks them perfectly for flares, pin scars, and other singular placements. The Offsets come in six sizes — No. 00 through No. 5 — and offer the same narrow head profile, Metolius’ Range Finder, custom-molded thumb piece, flexible single stem (for deeper placement and to minimize walking), and space-age hand-milled veneer. Slung with 3mm Monster Sling webbing and made of CNCmachined 7075-T6 aluminum, the cams are also CE/UIAA certified.
These cams were introduced last year, but we hadn’t used them extensively at the time of our last Gear Guide and wanted to report on our findings. Plus, since the middle of last year, Colorado Custom Hardware’s Alien Hybrids have been very difficult to obtain, making the Metolius Offset the only one you can find outside of Ebay. By pairing two different sizes of Master Cam lobes in a four-cam head—and keeping that head narrower than the vast majority of other four-cam units—Metolius has created a tool that fits superbly in pin scars, pods, and flaring cracks. This makes offsets a must for aid climbers who want to go hammerless. The six Offset Master Cams span a range from about 0.3 inch to 1.3 inches—i.e., pin-scar territory. But don’t think of these solely as tools to dig out of the gear closet for big walls. We found them perfectly adaptable to free climbing and suitable to a wide range of rock types, though we especially liked them on the rounded cracks and shallow seams of Boulder Canyon granite. For anything but perfectly parallel cracks (e.g., Indian Creek), we reached for them just as we would any other cam—by turning the cam to one side or the other, we could always optimize its placement. And when a crack flared radically, we were far happier with the result than we would have been with a traditional unit. As with Metolius’ regular line of Master Cams, the cam lobes are connected to the trigger with Kevlar cord instead of wires; these prevent kinking to maintain smooth lobe movement, and we detected no damage after fairly extensive use. One small Offset Master Cam bent sharply under the head after two falls in the same placement, requiring a vise and pliers to restore it to proper shape. But otherwise, testers felt these cams were burly tools that could be indispensable on some climbs, and will be useful on many.
The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.
A pictoral representation of the UIAA-125 and EN-12276 standards for frictional anchors (which includes SLCD's [cams] and Ballnuts).