How to use DMM Cam, warning, lifespan, inspection, care and maintenance with instructional pictures.
In order to provide more racking options in our active protection range we have combined some of our favourite features from our two existing cams: the tried and trusted 13.75°, single axle head unit of the 4CU, with the justifiably popular stem assembly of the Dragon with its patented thumb press and extendable sling design. The result is a lightweight, versatile, and functional device that caters for climbers who prefer single stem ergonomics, for those who are used to our traditional sizing system, and for those who want to double up their cam racks to offer even more placement options.
The range covers placements from 13mm to 100mm in nine colour coded sizes. The colours follow the same sequence as the 4CU, but we’ve reversed the cam lobe colouring to the opposite to the Dragon for easily identification.
With the Demon in the DMM range, we offer the worlds premium range of protection, both passive and active, for all climbers and all climbs.
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|Weight (g / oz)|
Weight (g / oz)
In grams and ounces, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.
|84.0 g / 2.96 oz|
|Cam Head||4 lobes, single axle|
|Stem||Flexible single stem|
|Sling||x8 mm Dyneema (double loop)|
|Camming Angle||14° |
|Active Strength|| 14 kN|
|Cam Range (mm / in)|
Cam Range (mm / in)
In millimeters and inches, the maximum dimensions of the cam lobes when shut tight and fully extended. Since the "usable" range is so debatable, all manufacturers now list the full dimensions to avoid confusion.
If a manufacturer lists the usable range, we'll include it here as well (this is now very rare).
| Total dimensions|
13 mm x 19 mm / 1 in x 1 in
If you’re looking at the Demon as a possible addition to your rack, I would urge you to find a shop that sells them and play around with one in the store. The size range complements other brands nicely, especially if you’re among the many who have never placed anything that isn’t a C4. Rather than double up on the same cams, it adds value to diversify your rack with cams whose sizes are slightly offset from the ones you already own.
The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.
A pictoral representation of the UIAA-125 and EN-12276 standards for frictional anchors (which includes SLCD's [cams] and Ballnuts).