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Petzl Verso Belay Device
  • Petzl Verso Belay Device
  • Petzl Verso Belay Device
  • Petzl Verso Belay Device
  • Petzl Verso Belay Device
  • Petzl Verso Belay Device

Verso

Rating

My vote: None ( 4.4 avg )

Description

Lightweight belay/rappel device for a broad range of single, half and twin ropes.

VERSO is Petzl's lightest belay device. It accommodates most rope diameters: single ropes 8.5 to 11 mm, half ropes 7.1 to 9.2 mm and twin ropes 6.9 to 9.2 mm. It is intuitive and easy to use in the gym or at the crag; well suited for learning how to belay. The specific design of the rope slots allows the rope to glide smoothly and reduces wear.

Description

  • Adapted to a broad range of rope diameters:
    - V-shaped friction grooves enable controlled braking
  • Easy to use:
    - classic belay technique with both hands on the rope
    - ropes glide smoothly through the device
    - can be used for rappels
    - rope installation diagrams for belaying and rappelling engraved on the device
  • Durable and lightweight: 
    - the rounded design of the rope slots limits wear and extends the life of the device

Retail price

US$ 25.95

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Device Type

Device Type

Tube

The most commonly used belay type also called an “ATC” or “tuber.” Other than a distinction between other belay device types, “Tube” is a rarely used term, most climbers just assume you're talking about this style when they refer to your "belay device."

Tube belay device example

Figure 8

Mostly used in rescue, canyoneering, tactical, work safety, or by old school climbers and rappellers. One reason they went out of popularity with recreational climbers is because they tend to create twists in the rope.

Figure 8 belay device example

Brake Assist

These devices assist in stopping the rope when a climber falls or hangs on the rope.

Brake Assist belay device example

Often referred to as “auto-blocking” but that’s not the official terminology because no belay device should be assumed to work automatically by itself, even if it feels like it does (or does most the time).

Plate

When simplicity is a must, or you started climbing before Tubers were the norm. Bonus: They tend to be very light weight.

Plate belay device example

Descender

For rappelling, not for belaying a lead climber or top-roping.

Descender example
Tube
Weight (g)

Weight (g)

In grams, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.

55 g
Belay Brake Assist

Belay Brake Assist

This is when the belay device significantly reduces the amount of holding power the belayer must exert to stop a fall and hold a climber.

This is also called "assisted-braking" as the device must hold a significant amount of the climber’s weight; this term does not include friction-adding "teeth" found on some tube style belay devices.

Confusingly referred to as “auto-blocking” or “auto-locking” these terms wrongly imply the device will always, automatically, stop a fall or hold a climber even if the belayer/rappeller is hands-free. These devices are not meant to be used without a hand on the braking side of the rope; the belayers/rapppeller brake hand should always be on the brake rope.

Worth Considering

Most of the mechanical brake assist devices only hold a single strand of rope and are not capable of double-strand rappelling (the most common method of rappel).

No
Rope Options 1 or 2 ropes
Guide Mode

Guide Mode

This is when you belay directly off the anchor instead of your harness. Guide mode is helpful if you climb outdoors a lot because it reduces the holding power required from the belayer. When your partner falls or rests, the weight of the climber is held mostly by the anchor and the belay device.

Tubers and Plates

When belaying in "guide mode," the tubers and plates turn auto-blocking. During a fall, the climbing rope pinches the slack rope, completely stopping the movement of either rope. A common guide mode setup shown below.

A double rope tubular device guide mode example

Mechanical Brake Assist Devices

There is no difference in the functionality of the device. A brake-hand should always be on the rope to ensure the climber is caught in the case of a fall. A common guide mode setup shown below.

A single rope mechanical brake assist guide mode example

Where guide mode is used

  • multi-pitch sport or trad climbs
  • single-pitch where you need to bring up a follower (say for a walk-off)

Learn More

http://www.climbing.com/skill/essential-skills-auto-blocking-belay-devices/

No guide mode
Teeth

Teeth

Teeth are only seen on tube devices. They add friction that helps grip the rope for more belaying control.

This is helpful for belaying heavier climbers. Teeth are becoming standard on new tube devices.

The belay device teeth are shown in the red circle

Worth Considering

Teeth do wear out. You can limit wear by rappelling on the side without teeth (if you don’t need the extra friction). Once they’re worn, you’ll still have a usable belay device, just less friction.

Yes
Rope Range (mm)

Rope Range (mm)

The range of rope diameters, in millimeters, that the manufacturer/brand specifies can safely be used.

This is the best case scenario and does not necessarily take into consideration that certified ropes have a tolerance of +/- .3 mm.

Recently, manufacturers have started to add an "optimized" rope range -- this is the range that will result in the nicest handling of the belay device.

6.9 mm  - 11.0 mm ­­
single: 8.5 - 11.0 half: 7.1 - 9.2 twin: 6.9 - 9.2
Certification

Certifications

The main climbing gear certifications are CE and UIAA--and normally the UIAA creates the rules that the CE body also supports. When possible, we try to list all the certifications the product carries.

To sell a climbing product in Europe, the device must be CE certified. There are no official requirements to sell climbing gear in the US. The UIAA certification is a voluntary process.

Learn More

Rock and Ice Certifications Guide
EN, UIAA
AVG RATING
4.02
( 4 avg )
Rating
3
( 3 avg )

Light braking. Good for belaying my 70lb son

Pros
Light weight and high quality finish
Cons
Lacks a bit of braking which is more noticeable when I'm belaying a heavier climber on a small rope

It's really light with a very high quality finish to it.  The braking is light as you'll read in many pro reviews so I use it to belay my 70lbs son.

It's really light with a very high quality finish to it.  The braking is light as you'll read in many pro reviews so I use it to belay my 70lbs son.

Rating
5.04
( 5 avg )

Pretty Good

Pros
Smooth operation
Cheap
Cons
Difficult to load any rope larger than 9 mm
Familiarity
I’ve used it a few of times

I really like how I got it for like twelve bucks from backcountry.com and it operates very smoothly. The only real drawback is that it is a little difficult to load a rope into it...

I really like how I got it for like twelve bucks from backcountry.com and it operates very smoothly. The only real drawback is that it is a little difficult to load a rope into it...

Outdoor Gear Lab Gear Review rating 4.5/5

Overall the Petzl Verso fulfills its role as a basic tube-style belay device. These designs are great for new or experienced climbers that appreciate simplicity and a good deal. When compared with its direct competition in this class though, we noticed a few small drawbacks in lock-off strength and durability. Nevertheless, the Verso is a capable belay device and well worth your consideration.

Updated Petzl Verso