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 The Jul is officially retired.You've found a page of history! The Jul is no longer produced by Edelrid and it is not available to buy from major online retailers. You can still check out all the specs and claim your ownership.

Edelrid Jul
  • Edelrid Jul
  • Edelrid Jul
  • Edelrid Jul
  • Edelrid Jul

Jul

Edelrid

Rating

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Description

The Jul is a beautifully styled single rope belay device with a unique two-component construction. The body is made of high quality stainless steel offering the best possible abrasion resistance with minimal heat conduction. The synthetic cover prevents the annoying "jingling" on the harness and protects your skin from burning after a prolonged belay or rappel session. An ideal belay device for sport and gym climbing using ropes between 8.9 and 10.5mm.

Retail price

US$ 17.95

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Device Type

Device Type

Tube

The most commonly used belay type also called an “ATC” or “tuber.” Other than a distinction between other belay device types, “Tube” is a rarely used term, most climbers just assume you're talking about this style when they refer to your "belay device."

Tube belay device example

Figure 8

Mostly used in rescue, canyoneering, tactical, work safety, or by old school climbers and rappellers. One reason they went out of popularity with recreational climbers is because they tend to create twists in the rope.

Figure 8 belay device example

Brake Assist

These devices assist in stopping the rope when a climber falls or hangs on the rope.

Brake Assist belay device example

Often referred to as “auto-blocking” but that’s not the official terminology because no belay device should be assumed to work automatically by itself, even if it feels like it does (or does most the time).

Plate

When simplicity is a must, or you started climbing before Tubers were the norm. Bonus: They tend to be very light weight.

Plate belay device example

Descender

For rappelling, not for belaying a lead climber or top-roping.

Descender example
Tube
Weight (g)

Weight (g)

In grams, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.

63 g
Teeth

Teeth

Teeth are only seen on tube devices. They add friction that helps grip the rope for more belaying control.

This is helpful for belaying heavier climbers. Teeth are becoming standard on new tube devices.

The belay device teeth are shown in the red circle

Worth Considering

Teeth do wear out. You can limit wear by rappelling on the side without teeth (if you don’t need the extra friction). Once they’re worn, you’ll still have a usable belay device, just less friction.

No
Guide Mode

Guide Mode

This is when you belay directly off the anchor instead of your harness. Guide mode is helpful if you climb outdoors a lot because it reduces the holding power required from the belayer. When your partner falls or rests, the weight of the climber is held mostly by the anchor and the belay device.

Tubers and Plates

When belaying in "guide mode," the tubers and plates turn auto-blocking. During a fall, the climbing rope pinches the slack rope, completely stopping the movement of either rope. A common guide mode setup shown below.

A double rope tubular device guide mode example

Mechanical Brake Assist Devices

There is no difference in the functionality of the device. A brake-hand should always be on the rope to ensure the climber is caught in the case of a fall. A common guide mode setup shown below.

A single rope mechanical brake assist guide mode example

Where guide mode is used

  • multi-pitch sport or trad climbs
  • single-pitch where you need to bring up a follower (say for a walk-off)

Learn More

http://www.climbing.com/skill/essential-skills-auto-blocking-belay-devices/

No guide mode
Belay Brake Assist

Belay Brake Assist

This is when the belay device significantly reduces the amount of holding power the belayer must exert to stop a fall and hold a climber.

This is also called "assisted-braking" as the device must hold a significant amount of the climber’s weight; this term does not include friction-adding "teeth" found on some tube style belay devices.

Confusingly referred to as “auto-blocking” or “auto-locking” these terms wrongly imply the device will always, automatically, stop a fall or hold a climber even if the belayer/rappeller is hands-free. These devices are not meant to be used without a hand on the braking side of the rope; the belayers/rapppeller brake hand should always be on the brake rope.

Worth Considering

Most of the mechanical brake assist devices only hold a single strand of rope and are not capable of double-strand rappelling (the most common method of rappel).

No
Rope Range (mm)

Rope Range (mm)

The range of rope diameters, in millimeters, that the manufacturer/brand specifies can safely be used.

This is the best case scenario and does not necessarily take into consideration that certified ropes have a tolerance of +/- .3 mm.

Recently, manufacturers have started to add an "optimized" rope range -- this is the range that will result in the nicest handling of the belay device.

8.9 mm - 12.0 mm ­­­
Certification

Certifications

The main climbing gear certifications are CE and UIAA--and normally the UIAA creates the rules that the CE body also supports. When possible, we try to list all the certifications the product carries.

To sell a climbing product in Europe, the device must be CE certified. There are no official requirements to sell climbing gear in the US. The UIAA certification is a voluntary process.

Learn More

Rock and Ice Certifications Guide
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No reviews yet.

Climbing Gear Review

CATCHY
The Jul’s slightly asymmetrical body shape allows for two friction modes, both of which are highly sensitive, locking off the rope with the slightest flick of a the wrist.
KEEPIN’ IT COOL
For those times where you have to lower your climber from the top of a 120-foot monster route, the Jul’s sleek, stainless-steel body dissipates heat rapidly, staying relatively cool — plus, the nylon coating insulates your hands from any heat that does accumulate.
EXTRA STRENGTH
The clip-in loop has been pull tested to 7kN. Just a little extra peace of mind and perhaps an indicator that function and form are not mutually exclusive.

Climbing Gear Review

The EDELRID JUL is a single-rope belay device (think: ATC-Sport) with a techy twist and a designy aesthetic. It’s made of stainless steel instead of the standard aluminum and is coated with a tough plastic — a totally new way of constructing a belay device. The Jul, according to Edelrid, is highly resistant to wear and never gets hot, even after a long lower. Of course, you can’t double-rope rappel with it, but it’s perfect for cragging and will win you style points.