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Don't trust it to hold your nuts


Black Diamond
Black Diamond OvalWire
Pros old

You cannot use the BD wire gate oval that comes with their nut set to hold your nuts. You need a solid gate oval. I was told this by my climbing mentor once before I led a climb (with my new nuts and accompanying wire gate biner). I thought “ok, sure, I'll think about it” . During the climb I experienced the reason why a wire gate is not a good idea here. When testing the nut, giving it a good tug with the biner/rest of the nuts, the placed nut somehow came off the wire gate biner. What?! That week I purchased a solid gate oval and have never had this issue again. I wish BD would sell their nuts with the solid gate instead.

Occasionally I use this wire gate for my glacier travels for my rescue system instead (with pully/prussik/knife). But my Omega Pacific oval is a bit smaller/lighter and does the job just as well (it has a smaller gate opening, but with such infrequent use it's not an issue at all).

doesn't carry nuts well