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Petzl Djinn Axess 12cm

Djinn Axess 12cm 2018

Rating

My vote: None ( 5.2 avg )

Description

The DJINN AXESS quickdraw is a reliable, durable solution for initiation to outdoor climbing. It has an AXESS sling and two DJINN carabiners: one straight-gate carabiner on top and one bent-gate carabiner on the bottom. The top carabiner, equipped with the Keylock system and a special nose shape, facilitates clipping and unclipping the anchor. The bottom carabiner is equipped with STRING sling protection to hold the carabiner in position and to facilitate clipping the rope.

DJINN AXESS quickdraw designed for a great outdoor climbing debut.
DJINN carabiners:
- large gate opening facilitates manipulations
- H-shaped cross section offers an improved strength/weight ratio
- wider contact surfaces for better rope glide and reduced wear on the carabiner
- nose and Keylock system helps avoid the carabiner snagging during maneuvers
- DJINN straight gate (upper part of the draw): facilitates clipping and unclipping
- DJINN bent gate (lower part of the draw): facilitates clipping the rope
AXESS slings:
- durable construction
- lower end equipped with STRING to hold the carabiner in position and protect the webbing from wear
Available in two lengths: 12 or 17 cm

Material(s) : aluminum carabiner, polyester webbing, rubber STRING

Retail price

US$ 16.95
Weight 107 g
Dogbone Size 12 cm long, 15 mm wide
Dogbone Material Polyester­
Dogbone Strength (kN) 22 kN
Top Carabiner Djinn Straight 2023 -
US$ 9.95

Petzl Djinn Straight Carabiner
Bottom Carabiner Djinn Bent 2023 -
US$ 9.95

Petzl Djinn Bent Carabiner
AVG RATING
5.04
( 5 avg )
Rating
5.04
( 5 avg )

Great Draws for Big Hands

Pros
Easy To Clip
Great Gate Feel
Large Hand Friendly
Great Construction
Cons
A Bit Heavy
Might Not Be Great for Small Hands
Familiarity
I’ve used it a bunch

These are extremely well built, great clipping, and easy draws to use. I have bigger hands so I really dig the slightly wider shape of the biners as a whole. It makes clips a little less stressfull knowing that I can dunk the rope every time without and insecure feeling.

Besides the size of the biners their action is top notch, with silky smooth gate action. If you had smaller hands these might not feel as secure, which is why I give them 5 stars instead of 6. For big hands however, they're the perfect draw.

Squamish Climbing Magazine Gear Review no rating given just a review

Overall, the Petzl Djinn Axess Quickdraw is a great new addition to Petzl’s line of quickdraws. With safety at the forefront of its design, the Petzl Djinn gives you that extra comfort when thinking about wear patterns and prolonged-use. The mid-range dogbone sling is just the right size to reduce bulk but still function well for grabbing a draw and during a few situations, made it easier to clip far away bolts. For those concerned about weight, the Djinn does weigh more than its counterpart and may feel a bit heavier when onsighting longer routes. Taking into consideration the above features and the price point, the Petzl Djinn Axess quickdraw is a great choice for both beginner and expert climbing alike. We would definitely recommend the Petzl Djinn Axess quickdraw to anyone looking to upgrade their draws this fall.

Outdoor Gear Lab Gear Review rating 4/5

Unlike Black Diamond, which seems to have a different draw for every day of the week, Petzl has stuck to manufacturing two for many years now: the Spirit Express and the lightweight Ange Finesse (not reviewed here). Their decision to make another sport-specific draw might just challenge the popularity of its ubiquitous Spirit Express. The Djinn Axess is a great, though heavy, sport climbing draw that should stand up to the wear and tear that bolts and repeated top roping will dish out to your gear.

DPM Climbing Gear Review no rating given just a review

The Petzl Djinn possesses all the traits of a top quality draw —notchless entry, light weight, polished design, and easy handling. The mystery behind the magical Djinn is how Petzl was able to do it all for just $16.95 for the 12cm model. The Djinn isn’t the cheapest draw on the market, nor the lightest and fanciest, but if you’re looking for high value at a low cost; there’s no better option out there.

Splitter Choss Gear Review no rating given just a review

With a bigger size and larger gate opening, they feel great in hand and are super easy to clip. More metal also means these should take longer to wear out. Available in 12 or 17 cm lengths, the dogbone isn’t as stout or wide as the one on the Spirit draws, but it’s rigid and easy enough to grab onto, should the need arise. The difference in cost compared to other high end draws is also significant, as for a set of twelve you’ll save $60 over the Spirits, which is no small amount.

Rock and Ice Gear Review rating 3.5/5

Though marketed as an introductory piece of gear, I was pleased to find that the Djinn is one of the best sport-climbing quickdraws. The only noticeable differences between the Djinn and the Spirit are 14 grams and five bucks.

Rock and Ice Gear Review rating 3.5/5

Though marketed as an introductory piece of gear, I was pleased to find that the Djinn is one of the best sport-climbing quickdraws. The only noticeable differences between the Djinn and the Spirit are 14 grams and five bucks.

Watch a tour of Petzl's facilities as they explain all the testing involved

Warning: This video is dubbed in English. If you're getting antsy, skip to section 7:40-8:15 for one of the most interesting parts, where they show a hardware specific camera inspection.