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Mammut Wall Alpine Belay
  • Mammut Wall Alpine Belay
  • Mammut Wall Alpine Belay
  • Mammut Wall Alpine Belay
  • Mammut Wall Alpine Belay
  • Mammut Wall Alpine Belay
  • Mammut Wall Alpine Belay
  • Mammut Wall Alpine Belay

Wall Alpine

Rating

My vote: None ( 4.2 avg )

Description

A safety device for use in alpine terrain, based on the tube principle. As well as securing a lead climber, the very light Bionic Alpine Belay also allows one or two second climbers to be independently belayed in an autolocking mode from the belay station. The optimised geometry also allows comfortable belaying as well as reliable blocking in the event of a fall by the second climber, the blocking action can be released again using a webbing sling and the large eyelet on the device. The V-shaped grooves allow the controlled holding of lead falls, even at low levels of manual force. Suitable for twin, half and single ropes from 7.5 to 10.5 mm in diameter.

Retail price

US$ 26.95

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Device Type

Device Type

Tube

The most commonly used belay type also called an “ATC” or “tuber.” Other than a distinction between other belay device types, “Tube” is a rarely used term, most climbers just assume you're talking about this style when they refer to your "belay device."

Tube belay device example

Figure 8

Mostly used in rescue, canyoneering, tactical, work safety, or by old school climbers and rappellers. One reason they went out of popularity with recreational climbers is because they tend to create twists in the rope.

Figure 8 belay device example

Brake Assist

These devices assist in stopping the rope when a climber falls or hangs on the rope.

Brake Assist belay device example

Often referred to as “auto-blocking” but that’s not the official terminology because no belay device should be assumed to work automatically by itself, even if it feels like it does (or does most the time).

Plate

When simplicity is a must, or you started climbing before Tubers were the norm. Bonus: They tend to be very light weight.

Plate belay device example

Descender

For rappelling, not for belaying a lead climber or top-roping.

Descender example
Tube
Weight (g)

Weight (g)

In grams, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.

70 g
Belay Brake Assist

Belay Brake Assist

This is when the belay device significantly reduces the amount of holding power the belayer must exert to stop a fall and hold a climber.

This is also called "assisted-braking" as the device must hold a significant amount of the climber’s weight; this term does not include friction-adding "teeth" found on some tube style belay devices.

Confusingly referred to as “auto-blocking” or “auto-locking” these terms wrongly imply the device will always, automatically, stop a fall or hold a climber even if the belayer/rappeller is hands-free. These devices are not meant to be used without a hand on the braking side of the rope; the belayers/rapppeller brake hand should always be on the brake rope.

Worth Considering

Most of the mechanical brake assist devices only hold a single strand of rope and are not capable of double-strand rappelling (the most common method of rappel).

No
Rope Options 1 or 2 ropes
Guide Mode

Guide Mode

This is when you belay directly off the anchor instead of your harness. Guide mode is helpful if you climb outdoors a lot because it reduces the holding power required from the belayer. When your partner falls or rests, the weight of the climber is held mostly by the anchor and the belay device.

Tubers and Plates

When belaying in "guide mode," the tubers and plates turn auto-blocking. During a fall, the climbing rope pinches the slack rope, completely stopping the movement of either rope. A common guide mode setup shown below.

A double rope tubular device guide mode example

Mechanical Brake Assist Devices

There is no difference in the functionality of the device. A brake-hand should always be on the rope to ensure the climber is caught in the case of a fall. A common guide mode setup shown below.

A single rope mechanical brake assist guide mode example

Where guide mode is used

  • multi-pitch sport or trad climbs
  • single-pitch where you need to bring up a follower (say for a walk-off)

Learn More

http://www.climbing.com/skill/essential-skills-auto-blocking-belay-devices/

Up to 2 followers
Teeth

Teeth

Teeth are only seen on tube devices. They add friction that helps grip the rope for more belaying control.

This is helpful for belaying heavier climbers. Teeth are becoming standard on new tube devices.

The belay device teeth are shown in the red circle

Worth Considering

Teeth do wear out. You can limit wear by rappelling on the side without teeth (if you don’t need the extra friction). Once they’re worn, you’ll still have a usable belay device, just less friction.

Yes
Rope Range (mm)

Rope Range (mm)

The range of rope diameters, in millimeters, that the manufacturer/brand specifies can safely be used.

This is the best case scenario and does not necessarily take into consideration that certified ropes have a tolerance of +/- .3 mm.

Recently, manufacturers have started to add an "optimized" rope range -- this is the range that will result in the nicest handling of the belay device.

7.5 mm  - 10.5 mm ­­­
Certification

Certifications

The main climbing gear certifications are CE and UIAA--and normally the UIAA creates the rules that the CE body also supports. When possible, we try to list all the certifications the product carries.

To sell a climbing product in Europe, the device must be CE certified. There are no official requirements to sell climbing gear in the US. The UIAA certification is a voluntary process.

Learn More

Rock and Ice Certifications Guide
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AVG RATING
6
( 6 avg )
Rating
6
( 6 avg )

Hasn't dropped anyone yet....

Pros
Solid autolock
Lightweight
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton

I've been using this to haul my kids up multipitches since 2015. Works like a charm. I have realized it's time to replace it. I've ground the friction side down so much that it's begun to be less effective when used as a standard ATC from below.

Rope doesn't feed out as well, and I find myself shorting the lead when they're clipping. But 8 years of multipitch, there is absolutely nothing wrong with the design.  

Rating
6
( 6 avg )

You gotta love how the reverso hole is placed !

Pros
Smooth slack taking when belaying from anchor
Cons
A bit pricey
Familiarity
I’ve used it a ton

The Mammut Wall Alpine belaying device definitely meets my needs when it comes to belay someone as a second especially where I climb where most of the anchors are single rings .

The way the hole is placed on the devise for the reverso mode is definitely making a difference for me and allows me to take slack more smoothly than a regular reverso that seats on the side . I've bought it twice so far and I'll buy it again .

How to use Mammut Wall Alpine