The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.
Camalot C4 2
The world’s best-selling, most trusted cam just got better. The new, redesigned Camalot C4 has now upped the ante, considering it’s 10% lighter yet just as durable as before. Plus, it features a modern design that improves on the old tried-and-true Camalots. The cam’s lobes are lighter and more sculpted, optimized for strength to weight, while the slings have a visual update for easier differentiation when racking. And speaking of racking, we’re introducing a new innovative trigger keeper on sizes #4, #5, and #6, that keeps the big guys contracted for compact racking and immediately release when you’re ready to place. We’ve also widened the trigger as well for better handling.
- Lighter sculpted lopes optimized for strength to weight
- Slings are updated visually for easier differentiation when racking
- Double-axle design offers the widest range for each cam unit
- C-Loop continuous cable stem design is strong and durable
- Color-coded for easy identification and a wide range of sizes
- Neutrino Rackpack available for easy racking (see Carabiners)
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|Weight (g / oz)|
Weight (g / oz)
In grams and ounces, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.
|140.0 g / 4.95 oz|
|Cam Head||4 lobes, double axle|
|Stem||Flexible single stem|
|Sling||Nylon / Polyamide (single loop)|
|Active Strength|| 14 kN|
|Cam Range (mm / in)|
Cam Range (mm / in)
In millimeters and inches, the maximum dimensions of the cam lobes when shut tight and fully extended. Since the "usable" range is so debatable, all manufacturers now list the full dimensions to avoid selling themselves short.
For offset cams, we'll list the max dimensions possible and then afterwards list each of lobe dimensions.
|37.2 - 64.9 mm (1.46 - 2.55 in) |
Last summer, I had the chance to preview the updated BD C4 Camalots. As I’ve continued using them on all types of rock, I’ve come more and more to appreciate just what great cams they are—streamlined, quick to place, reliable, and notably stable, with minimal walking thanks to the classic double-axle design. The C4s are now 10 percent lighter (thanks to more cutaways in the cam lobes), the triggers are wider for easier pull, the larger cams have stiffer stems and the smaller cams have softer stems, and the cam lobes and slings are brighter and color matched for quick ID. Most notably, Nos. 4–6 have handy Trigger Keeper wires that let you keep the lobes down when the cam isn’t in use—either in your pack or racked on your harness. Then, simply retract the trigger and, boom, the cam opens and is ready to place.
The cams are easier to spot on the harness, as Black Diamond colored both lobes to match the size of the cam, instead of only two out of four on the old ones. Experienced climbers who have plugged gear for years may not notice this. But beginner climbers desperate to spot that No. 1 before they lose grip will dig it.
The Black Diamond C4 is an Iconic piece of equipment that has revolutionized the way we climb. We use BD sizing to describe crack sizes instead of inches. They are completely deserving of their veneration and popularity. The recent update only makes them better with the 10% weight reduction and the trigger keepers.
A pictoral representation of the UIAA-125 and EN-12276 standards for frictional anchors (which includes SLCD's [cams] and Ballnuts).