Tatanka, the most asymmetrical of our laced models, is a high-performance climbing shoe designed to take maximum advantage of the biomechanical properties of your feet in order to make climbing easier. When attempting the hardest moves on rock, time is often a critical factor, and this shoe allows you to make the fastest responses in all kinds of difficult situations.
The shoe fits closely, just like a glove, and include SXRDynamics — a moving tightening system — together with a group of modifications in the sole and structure that have allowed us not only to increase the precision and comfort, but also means the foot is able to employ its maxim strength. Tatanka also has a quick and effective lacing system, a perfect combination of materials, and a powerful heel, giving great results on difficult rock climbs.
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|Weight|| 340 g|
Single : 170 g / 6.0 oz
4-14 US M 5-15 US W3-13 UK (mid sizes included)|
Take your average size for European and/or U.S. based climbing shoe brands. Your Tenaya size should be approximately 0.0 to 0.5 sizes larger than your average size in European brand shoes, or 0.5 to 1 size smaller than your average size in U.S. brand shoes. Downsize the Oasi and Tarifa 0.5 size...
|Best Use (Highest Performance)||
Sport / Face|
|Last Details|| Shape: Arched (technical)|
|Midsole Material||2D PLT 10|
|Sole Material||4.0 mm Vibram XS Grip|
|Footbed Lining|| |
Cotton with TXT treatment
The only drawback I’ve found with these shoes is that they don’t edge particularly well once the holds get small. The shoe is soft enough that it tends to roll off of edges, meaning you have to “smedge” more than edge, which I typically find to feel less secure than a shoe that has more of a bite.
Regardless, this is a great shoe that excels at a wide variety of climbing. If you are primarily climbing steep edges you might want to check out the Masai instead, but for everything else, these are hard to beat.
Overall, the Tenaya Tatanka is an incredible all-around shoe that performs at an elite level without the typical pain of aggressive shoes.
And if you love vertical, overhanging, delicate, or technical climbs that require precise footwork, this could be your shoe of choice.
“They’re not perfect at anything, but they perform really well everywhere, which makes them terrific for a fairly high-performance versatile shoe,” our tester said. A semi-stiff sole and precise fit means they edge and smear—plus everything in between—but don’t quite “grab” the rock as much as you might want on the steeps because they’re not super stiff. Sensitivity was solid, even on outside edges when our tester had to deadpoint off a smooth quartzite bump on Wicked Gravity (5.11a) at Lake Louise: “I back-stepped and as soon as I stood up, I felt solid on the tiny foot and could launch with confidence.” The Tatanka got really high marks for durability and fit (best for narrow to average feet) as well.
“The Tatanka competes with my favorite shoe of all time—La Sportiva’s Testarossa,” one tester said. “I wore these for hard bouldering, sport projects, and even long routes because they’re so versatile.” A moderate downturn and asymmetric toe gave testers precision on overhanging power-fests and techy vertical routes, but it had just enough flex to allow for smearing and smedging on slabbier pitches. “I packed this shoe for trips to Ten Sleep, Wyoming, daily gym sessions, and multi-pitch adventures in Lumpy Ridge, Colorado,” one tester said. A standout feature is the inner sock lining (in lieu of a standard tongue) that wraps around the top of the foot and under the laces, which padded bonier feet.