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Thanks to the Bi-Tension System technology, maximum precision and sensitivity guaranteed to last, even with intense usage. Quick lace-up fastening for an adjustable, precise fit.
Comfort and breathability guaranteed by the 100% suede leather upper.
XS Edge Vibram sole® for top precision and sensitivity when hooking, as well as excellent grip.
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| Weight | 225 g Single : 225 g / 7.94 oz (Size 40) |
| Closure Type | Lace |
| Gender | Unisex |
| Volume | |
| Sizing Information |
European sizes 34-45, including half sizes. From your measured size, you'll want to consider downsizing .5 - 2 full sizes. The flatter the shoe, the closer to your measured size; the more downturned / aggressive the shoe, the more you'll want to downsize.  Scarpa-Shoe-Size-Chart_4.pdf |
| Best Use (Highest Performance) |
Sport / Face Over-hanging |
| Asymmetry | Moderate |
| Tongue Details | not provided by the brand |
| Last Details | Shape: Arched (technical) Construction: not provided by the brand Last : FQ Scarpa considers last information super top secret so we can’t define the last types further than the initials FQ. But, if you find a Scarpa shoe that fits, any Scarpa shoes with the same last initials will fit your foot in a very similar way. |
| Upper Material | not provided by the brand SUEDE |
| Midsole Material | not provided by the brand Flexan |
| Sole Material | 4.0 mm
XS EDGE
Rand: Bi-Tension |
| Footbed Lining | not provided by the brand |
No reviews yet.
SCARPA has really made something for everyone with this shoe in three different styles. A unique feature that they all share is SCARPA’s patent pending Bi-Tension rand. This innovative use of the rand acts like a reverse slingshot, pulling power from the toes rather than jamming them forward. The rand anchors under the toe box, giving focused power and a surprising amount of comfort. Another plus they all share is a minimal amount of rubber compared to many rock shoes, making them quite light. Asymmetrical toe boxes make these bad boys edging machines and a slightly downturned toe gives them power for pulling.
If you’re looking for a somewhat aggressive shoe with solid construction, the Instinct is worth it. Relative to other similar shoes on the market, it’s a pretty good deal give how long it is likely to last. The women’s specific Instinct is identical to the men’s with the exception of adjusted sizing.
After having taken the Instincts on dozens of climbing days from sport to alpine rock in the last few months, they've become my everyday, high performance shoes which means they are ideal for multi-pitch routes on the Diamond as well as frictioning up a Lumpy Ridge face or holding an edge in Eldorado - these babies can do it all.
I have to admit, I have never really been a fan of Scarpa shoes. I’d had a chance to try a few when I was working at Climbing Magazine for their shoe reviews, and they always seemed a little clunky to me. I mean, why would I wear those when I had my trusty Sportiva’s instead? After test driving the Scarpa Instincts, however, I have to say they have made some serious progress, and now offer shoes that can compete with the best of them.
I found both models to be confidence-boosting performers, especially on vitreous limestone smears and rounded sandstone edges. The slipper was both a sensitive and powerful edging shoe. The lace-up shoe was great at edging, and was a more reliable heel-hooker. Despite being sized snugly, the slipper often failed on more demanding heel-grappling situations such as The Buddha (V6) at the Gunks.
It’s hard to believe, but Scarpa continues to outdo itself with quality, high-end kicks. The lace-up Instinct has a slightly asymmetric, downturned last that maintains its shape for the shoe’s life. The unlined, leather upper conforms to your foot but stretch is minimized with a grid of stitching. A 3.5mm Vibram XS Grip rubber sole and Tenoflex midsole combine to “hold a laser edge,” said one tester. The roomy forefoot accommodates wide feet while the laces ensure a vacuum fit for narrower, lower-volume feet as well. One tester called the Instinct his “top-shelf redpoint shoes” for everything vertical and steeper.
Video shows how and where Scarpa shoes are made.
