P3® patented technology for a down-turned performance fit for slicing and dicing where needed.
Patented S-Heel™ construction provides optimal heel hooking maneuverability and the perfect heel cup fit.
Laser-cut uppers reduce stitching and bulk.
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|Weight|| 175 g|
Single : 175 g / 6.2 oz
European sizes 32-43, including half sizes.|
La Sportiva Shoes are built on European half sizes which are smaller increments than US half sizes.
|Best Use (Highest Performance)||
Sport / Face|
|Last Details|| Shape: Downturned (performance)|
Construction: Slip Lasted
Last : WPD 75 This means the last shape has a pointed toe, it is downturned and has high asymmetry.
|Upper Material||Leather / Microfiber|
|Midsole Material||1.1 mm LaspoFlex with P3®|
|Sole Material||4.0 mm Vibram® XS Edge|
|Footbed Lining|| |
Pacific (in front)
Vibram® XS Edge
In 2018 La Sportiva significantly increased their range of women's climbing shoes, with female-specific counterparts to the likes of the Futura, Solution, Kataki, Otaki, Skwama, Miura and Katana. This is a great development for women (obviously), as it provides far wider choice. However, it's only better if it's a genuine and significant change to what's out there already. With that in mind I was interested to see how two of the new crop - the Otaki and the Skwama – performed. Having used both for several months now, I can safely say that each is brilliant in its niche. In fact they complement each other really well.
Both the Otaki and the Skwama perform very highly in the areas they are designed for, and buying a pair of each would be a wise choice for all-round climbers. The fit and design of both models represents the state of the art, for now at least, and this combines high performance, durability and comfort. I was particularly impressed by the Skwama because it took me by surprise – showing not only the characteristics of a great soft shoe, but also holding its own on edges and excelling on marginal toe hooks. For what they are designed for, the Otaki and Skwama are two of the best shoes available.
The La Sportiva Otaki works really well as a single shoe to use both for technical face climbing and the occasional crack. It’s comfortable enough to wear when belaying and on moderate crack climbs, making it a pretty strong one-shoe-quiver contender, though hard core crack climbers might want something with a little less downturn and asymmetry.
Another way to think about this is that the Otaki is ideally suited for the hard, cryptic combination of face and crack holds on vertical rock that typify the climbing in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado. But if your goal is to spend the weekend swimming up hand cracks in Indian Creek or embarking on long, moderate alpine routes, you might find the Otaki to be a bit too aggressive.
For really steep stuff (40-degrees overhanging or more), I do prefer a softer shoe than the Otakis, and, obviously, I’d never stick my Otakis in a crack, but if I had to choose just one shoe or 75% of climbing situations, the Women’s Otaki would be the one. I’d recommend the Women’s Otaki for any ladies looking for one go-to shoe that can get the job done for most sport climbing and bouldering, and for anyone looking for a shoe that slays on the tiniest of footholds.
If you're after something suitable for a wide range of rock types and disciplines, then the Otaki is a very strong contender. It's built to last, and comfortable, yet it offers a level of stiffness and support that few other boots can match.