You probably know someone who has stockpiled the Lace-up in anticipation of a chance on "To Bolt or Not to Be". To help out, we made the classic shoe even better. STEALTH C4 toe rand, new heel construction, and a lined Cowdura™ synthetic upper that fits like a glove, all provide the familiar, secure and reliable fit, climb after climb.
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|Weight|| 224 g|
Single : 224 g / 7.9 oz (Size 9)
US sizes : 3-13, 14, 15UK sizes : 2-12, 13, 14|
|Best Use (Highest Performance)||All-around|
|Last Details|| Shape: Arched (technical)|
|Upper Material||Cowdura (man-made synthetic suede)|
|Sole Material||Stealth® C4™|
Over the past year and a half, the Anasazi Lace-Up from Five Ten (commonly referred to as the Pinks) have become my go-to climbing shoe for outdoor climbing around the Portland area. They are a stiff, flat lasted shoe that performs excellently on terrain ranging from slabby to slightly overhanging. These shoes fit great and perform even better!
If the price tag doesn’t make you flinch, and the shoe fits, go for it. You just can’t go wrong with the Pink. It’s a performance-oriented model that’s also an excellent all-arounder. Of all the climbing shoes in the business, this is one of our favorites. Despite all of the positives, beginning climbers may want to look elsewhere. It’s not just the initial price: the 2mm sole will wear through quicker for climbers still learning to use their feet properly. Resoles aren’t nearly as expensive as new shoes, but they aren’t free. If you don’t like lace-ups, consider the Anasazi Tan VCS. It’s as good as the Pink, but will break in a little more comfortably over time and excel more in multi-pitch terrain. Finally, the Velcro model is much older than the Pink, so if you shop around you may be able to find some cheaper closeout models.
The Five Ten Pink Anasazi Lace-up (MSRP $150) is a comfortable, flat-lasted shoe for all types of face climbing. The original classic pink Anasazi from the 1990s returns better than ever with a lower-volume heel and C4 rubber. A synthetic-lined, lace-up shoe built for standing on the tiniest dime edges.
The Five Ten Anasazi Pinks are one of the best all-around performers on the market today. As with any shoe, sizing the shoe to your specifications is crucial. Size them tight for 5.14 faces or let your big toe lay comfortably flat for all-day jaunts up 1000-foot 5.8 cracks in the Wind River Range. The 2014 Pinks are unique in that they’re equally suited for standard-pushing pros and beginners looking for that first pair of shoes that can handle anything.
I gave the Pink 3.5 stars because it’s an improvement on a shoe I loved, and remains one of the most powerful edging shoes ever made. However, I feel that Five Ten could have tweaked the lacing and last to make the design even more modern.
“The Pinky is perfect,” one tester said of the sorely missed pink Anasazi lace-up’s high performance and incredible versatility. It was discontinued in 2007, but high demand brought it back. The new version features a redesigned and deeper heel that has a more aggressive taper toward the top, and testers deemed it “comfy but technical.” It was tight enough to inspire confidence on a variety of terrain, but it wasn’t so snug that testers’ feet were screaming after a short pitch. It’s flat-lasted with no downturn and plenty stiff enough to edge and provide support on long routes like Fine Jade (5.11a) in Castle Valley, Utah, but users were pleasantly surprised that it was also soft enough to smear on nothing holds. “I can face climb and jam on moderately difficult routes with the same amount of success,” one tester said. Tried-and-true Stealth C4 rubber was ultra-sticky, while the lined Cowdura upper (synthetic leather) molded to feet sans stretching—even after six months. Welcome back, Pinkies. We missed you.