Anasazi LV Women
Narrow feet? No problem. LV stands for Low Volume—the shoe is built for people with narrow feet and low insteps. The LV last mimics the typically narrower female foot by providing a narrower and slightly longer toe box, a higher arch, a lower instep and a lower heel cup.
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|Weight|| 190 g|
Single : 190 g / 6.7 oz (Size 7)
US sizes : 5-11UK sizes : 2.5-8.5|
|Best Use (Highest Performance)||All-around|
|Last Details|| Shape: Arched (technical)|
|Upper Material||Cowdura (man-made synthetic suede)|
|Sole Material||Stealth® C4™|
If you want as little material as possible between your toe and the rock, this is the shoe to get. An amazingly sensitive shoe, it lets you dance your feet up the rock on features you didn't know it was possible to stand on. This performance shoe has a flat shape and a more welcoming fit than other shoes like the La Sportiva Miura - Women's that offers a similar level of performance, but has a more aggressive shape.
So what’s specific about these Five Ten Anasazi LV’s I’ve been wearing recently? The LV stands for low-volume, and is ideal for women with narrow feet and low insteps. I pretty much have the ultimate average foot, size 7/7.5 and neither wide nor narrow, and my arch is not too high and not too flat. This time around, I wanted to size a bit aggressively with the plan to have them eventually replace my Galileo’s, so I got a size 7, which is interesting because my Galileo’s are a size 6 and are basically the same length as this Anasazi pair (they’ve stretched slightly over time, but still). I was really glad I didn’t ask for a size 6, otherwise it would be impossible for me to even force my foot in.
It’s probably fair to say that there are more comfortable women’s/low volume shoes around for longer routes and routes up to HVS (for example, the Five Ten Siren) However, for precision and stickiness for mid to higher grade routes and boulder problems without sacrificing too much in the way of comfort, these should do the job nicely.
In general, the LVs hold up well to other competing shoes, and separate from the pack when it comes to comfort (and, in my opinion, color). For performing as well as shoes like the Katanas and Elektras, the LVs are much more comfortable. I found the break-in period to be both minimal and mild; I wore the shoes pretty comfortably right out of the box. As I mentioned before, though, the LVs don’t stretch, so if they feel uncomfortably tight from the get-go, they definitely won’t get any more comfortable.
I also found that my average-volume female foot was probably on the upper end of what shape foot fits into these shoes. I imagine that climbers with very narrow feet will probably fit into these shoes remarkably well. However, anyone with wider or less-defined feet than mine may find this shoe too low-volume.
In short, the Anasazi LV is an extremely comfortable, all-around shoe, and may be especially valuable to those who struggle to fit into other popular, similar shoes.
The Anasazi, a favorite among sport climbers and boulderers because of its grabby rubber, down-turned toe and lightweight yet supportive design, now comes in a women's version. A lower-volume variation of the original, this narrower shoe utilizes the same thin, synthetic uppers, giving it the lightness of a slipper with the performance of a shoe. The two Velcro straps, padded for comfort, make this high-performing shoe easily adjustable. A tensioned rand snugs down the stiff heel, which hooks perfectly despite being a bit baggy. However, because the Anasazi is such a lightweight shoe (i.e., there's not much material between your foot and the rock), it's not ideal for long routes. Despite these limitations, I'd spend all day in the Shawangunks bouldering or trad climbing the steeps in these puppies.