A pictoral representation of UIAA-101 and EN-892 standards for ropes.
9.2mm Performance 80m Dry
Being at once single rope, double rope and twin rope, the PERFORMANCE is an hybrid product that synthesizes the extreme needs of experts.
|Weight|| 52.0 g/m|
9.171 lbs / 4160 g
|Diameter (millimeters)||9.2 mm|
|Length (meters)||80 m|
|UIAA Falls (Single / Half / Twin)||5 / 20 / 25|
|Dynamic Elongation (Single / Half / Twin)||37.0 % / 32.0 % / 29.0 %|
|Static Elongation (Single / Half / Twin)||8.0 % / 8.0 % / 7.0 %|
|Impact Force (Single / Half / Twin)||8.20 kN / 6.00 kN / 9.50 kN|
|Dry Treatment||Sheath (aka Everdry)|
|Sheath Proportion (%)|||
|Sheath Slippage (mm)||0 mm|
|Type of Middle Mark||Marking|
|Rope End Marker||None|
|Certification||CE, EN, UIAA|
A really good, well handling, durable rope. Not the softest feeling rope out there, but nice to use and hard wearing for a 9.2mm. Light enough (just) to use as a half rope, but better as a skinny single rope for sport or trad. A good buy if you predominantly want a single rope, but might need a half rope occasionally.
I tested this rope on routes both trad and sport, long and short. The 9.2mm is a hair too slim to work comfortably with a Grigri (try the new Fader’s SUM, reviewed above), especially for sport-wanking dog-a-thons, but is a godsend for trad climbing. I took this rope up on Idyllwild, California’s, The Vampire (5.11a). This daunting line, with its route-finding nebulousness, holdless traverses and long runouts, demands a light, smooth-feeding cord. The Performance was just that, and, when used with an ATC-style device, felt plenty beefy in the belayer’s hands. On single-pitch routes, such as the grainy, punishing cracks of Joshua Tree, the rope excelled as well, clipping quickly and smoothly into gear, and feeling light and nimble in my quivering mitts. Thus, it would also make for a good sport-climbing redpoint cord, especially suited to long, rope-stretching pitches.
After more than twenty months of climbing with Edelweiss Performances, I feel pretty qualified in my judgment of the rope. The Performance works well on ice, but not as great as twins. Sport cragging with it is fine. (One should be aware of its elasticity and GriGri crazed partners may be confused by its diameter.) Where this rope really stands out is on alpine rock. When a single rope is required, and the approach cannot be done in sandals, the Edelweiss Performance is my choice. It's light on the back, small in the pack, and in my experience an actual lifesaver when carried as a ""just in case"" measure.
Pros: Light, Thin,
Cons: No Middle Mark, Cost, Squirrelly
The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.