A pictoral representation of UIAA-101 and EN-892 standards for ropes.
9.3mm Wave 80m Bicolor
New for 2014 is the 9.3mm Wave. The super cool construction follows the same logic as the 9.1mm Icon with the idea of packing as much sheath onto a slim rope as is possible. This gives it incredible handling characteristics and more importantly a longer service life. The 9.3mm Wave holds its round shape well especially under a load for easier and safer rope management. Woo hoo!
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|Weight|| 56.0 g/m|
9.876 lbs / 4480 g
|Diameter (millimeters)||9.3 mm|
|Length (meters)||80 m|
|UIAA Falls (Single / Half / Twin)||6 / 17 / -|
|Dynamic Elongation (Single / Half / Twin)||33.6 % / 28.9 % / -|
|Static Elongation (Single / Half / Twin)||4.3 % / 4.3 % / -|
|Impact Force (Single / Half / Twin)||8.00 kN / 6.10 kN / -|
|Sheath Proportion (%)|||
|Sheath Slippage (mm)||3 mm|
|Type of Middle Mark||Bicolor|
|Rope End Marker||None|
|Certification||CE, EN, UIAA|
Details about 9.1mm Icon and 9.3mm Wave.
If you’re looking to slim down in rope size but have been hesitant because of durability concerns, look no further. By upping the amount of sheath on the rope with a super-tight braided structure, you get more stiffness, less flop, and ultimately a longer lifespan. While the core still provides the strength of your cord, a denser sheath will add rigidity so it has a thicker feel without added width or weight. It also means more material standing between the core and agents of abrasion. Thanks to that tight outer material, “This rope slid through gear like water through a sieve, so it was great for long routes where rope drag would otherwise be an issue,” one tester said. Despite the thin diameter, which usually means more dynamic elongation, the stretch on this was minimal when one tester took about seven falls at the crux of Horizontal Mambo (5.13a), Potash Road, Utah. “I would deem the slogan of this rope, ‘Worry less, climb more!’” he said. Feel free to take this on long slogs to the crag, too, as it’s 56 g/m, so the 60-meter version weighs in at a mere 7.4 pounds. Bonus: It’s rated as a half rope, too.
The UIAA equipment standard provides a baseline for equipment performance in a test lab under controlled conditions on new equipment. Although these test conditions are relevant to the conditions encountered climbing, conditions encountered at the crags and the condition of the equipment are equally important. This recommendation from the UIAA member federation The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides vital equipment information that is NOT explicitly addressed in the standard, particularly failure modes of the equipment and recommendations for the use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment.